Where's your tail? Missing in war?
Cat behavior is how cats interact with other cats, animals, and environment. Cats have a unique 'language' that consists mainly of body actions and occasionally, vocal calls.
Animal training is generally performed in adherence to the theory of operant conditioning, although modern training methods frequently utilize tools not included in the original Skinnerian conception. Some sites will teach you everything there is to know about electronic static stimulation training to determine if it is a well-suited training method for you and your cat.
Fundamentally, cat training is about communication. The trainor is communicating to them what behaviors are correct, desired, or preferred in what circumstances. However, from the pet's perspective the owner must communicate what behaviors will give the pet the most satisfaction to his natural instincts and emotions. Without that inner satisfaction a cat will not be happy.
We want you to learn about the different types of static stimulation, how technology has enabled improvements to static stimulation and weighs the advantages of using static stimulation over some other types of training products on the market. We encourage you to read what vet owners, cat trainers and other cat owners have to say about the appropriate role of static stimulation in cat training to see if it is a method that is right for you and your pet. If you learn how static stimulation works, it may help you and your pet communicate more effectively, leading to a happier and healthier pet.Did you know that 80 percent of pets being surrendered to shelters and rescue groups are due to unresolved obedience and behavior problems?
Guy Katir
http://www.solikatir.com/Cat-Behavior-Problems.html
Training Secrets to a Well-behaved Feline friend. Learn some techniques and tricks for you cat.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Guy_Katir
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Animal training is generally performed in adherence to the theory of operant conditioning, although modern training methods frequently utilize tools not included in the original Skinnerian conception. Some sites will teach you everything there is to know about electronic static stimulation training to determine if it is a well-suited training method for you and your cat.
Fundamentally, cat training is about communication. The trainor is communicating to them what behaviors are correct, desired, or preferred in what circumstances. However, from the pet's perspective the owner must communicate what behaviors will give the pet the most satisfaction to his natural instincts and emotions. Without that inner satisfaction a cat will not be happy.
We want you to learn about the different types of static stimulation, how technology has enabled improvements to static stimulation and weighs the advantages of using static stimulation over some other types of training products on the market. We encourage you to read what vet owners, cat trainers and other cat owners have to say about the appropriate role of static stimulation in cat training to see if it is a method that is right for you and your pet. If you learn how static stimulation works, it may help you and your pet communicate more effectively, leading to a happier and healthier pet.Did you know that 80 percent of pets being surrendered to shelters and rescue groups are due to unresolved obedience and behavior problems?
Guy Katir
http://www.solikatir.com/Cat-Behavior-Problems.html
Training Secrets to a Well-behaved Feline friend. Learn some techniques and tricks for you cat.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Guy_Katir
Punishing is the hardest part in training a pet especially with cat. There are many ways a trainer can punish the cat. It can be through words, actions or something physical. However, there are things that need to be considered when punishing a cat during cat training.
1. Find the perfect time. There is a perfect time a cat should be punished during training. A punishment will only be effective if delivered immediately after the cat has done something that is not desirable.
If the cat is punished later after the misbehavior, it will not be able to associate the punishment with the misbehavior. Cats do not understand the same way people do. That is why it is important to associate the undesired action to communication of the punishment.
2. Punishment does not mean that the trainer has to hurt the cat. Cats are just animals and do not have a sense of what is right or wrong. Punishing a cat by inflicting pain in their body is not right.
Aside from the fact that inflicting physical pain is against Animal Rights, the cat will only be provoked and might fight back. It may only cause the trainer to be bitten by the cat. This will also result in making the cat become violent which may be very dangerous to kids and other people who may come close to it.
3. Other alternatives may also be used in correcting a cat. One effective way is the reward and recognition method. In the rewards and recognition, the cat is reinforced to continue a likable behavior because a reward is associated to it.
Rewards can be in the form of praises, petting, food or toys. If a cat did something good that it was taught to do, the cat may be given rewards like food, a yarn toy, or a hug. The trainer can immediately remove the rewards if something undesirable is done. The cat will then learn that the treats will be removed if the undesirable action is made again.
Training a cat, like any other pets, requires patience and understanding in order to be effective. Results may not be fast, but if one is consistent in training, results will be a lot faster. Cats are the sweetest pets one could have and it is only fair that they be treated the same.
Anita Hampton http://www.cat-health-tips.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anita_Hampton
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1. Find the perfect time. There is a perfect time a cat should be punished during training. A punishment will only be effective if delivered immediately after the cat has done something that is not desirable.
If the cat is punished later after the misbehavior, it will not be able to associate the punishment with the misbehavior. Cats do not understand the same way people do. That is why it is important to associate the undesired action to communication of the punishment.
2. Punishment does not mean that the trainer has to hurt the cat. Cats are just animals and do not have a sense of what is right or wrong. Punishing a cat by inflicting pain in their body is not right.
Aside from the fact that inflicting physical pain is against Animal Rights, the cat will only be provoked and might fight back. It may only cause the trainer to be bitten by the cat. This will also result in making the cat become violent which may be very dangerous to kids and other people who may come close to it.
3. Other alternatives may also be used in correcting a cat. One effective way is the reward and recognition method. In the rewards and recognition, the cat is reinforced to continue a likable behavior because a reward is associated to it.
Rewards can be in the form of praises, petting, food or toys. If a cat did something good that it was taught to do, the cat may be given rewards like food, a yarn toy, or a hug. The trainer can immediately remove the rewards if something undesirable is done. The cat will then learn that the treats will be removed if the undesirable action is made again.
Training a cat, like any other pets, requires patience and understanding in order to be effective. Results may not be fast, but if one is consistent in training, results will be a lot faster. Cats are the sweetest pets one could have and it is only fair that they be treated the same.
Anita Hampton http://www.cat-health-tips.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anita_Hampton
The most scary cats vest in the world!
Have you ever received a cat massage? Do you know what a cat massage is? It is where your frisky little friend hops on your back and gives you a gentle massage. This little technique is actually something that my precious Cuddles made up on her own, and it had many benefits for both of us.
It was rather comical when it first started. I was lying in bed when Cuddles jumped on my back and started kneading away and purring up a storm. She was kneading with such intensity that it actually felt like I was at a spa getting a real massage.
She would not do it often, but I certainly enjoyed it when she was in her loving mood and I let her know with some extra hugs and stroking. She is gone now and the other cats have never done the kneading massage on my back, so now it is up to my husband to do the back massages.
There is another type of cat massage. It is a massage that you give your cat. You must do this with care as you do not want to turn your cat off to a wonderful bonding experience.
There are two main purposes of massaging your cat. Getting your cat to relax and for you to do a self-examination of your cat. It will also allow you to get to know your cat very well and create a special bond.
Massaging a cat can be a little tricky, depending on how touchy or loveable your cat can be with your touch. Some cats love to be rubbed down all over and some do not. It will take time for you to find the areas that your cat will allow you to do a gentle massage. Be patient and take it slow, you want it to be enjoyable for both of you.
While you are exploring with massaging your cat, notice how they feel to your touch. Get to know each area of them, at least the ones that they will allow you to touch and massage. After awhile you will notice your cat relaxing more and this will allow them to relieve any stress they have felt during the day.
Each one of my cats is different in the areas that they will allow me to massage. Tiggy is very fussy about her tummy and refuses to let me rub or massage it, so I leave it alone and just work the rest of her muscles. Cooper loves a massage anyway he can get it, as long as it is when he wants it. Leena also does not like her tummy to be rubbed or massaged, but she sure does love her neck to be rubbed.
When massaging them also pay attention to things like lumps, bumps, or anything that doesn’t feel normal. Or even a new irritation that they didn’t have with the massage before. I actually found a lump on Leena’s neck during one of her massages. I did not like how it felt, so I immediately made an appointment for her to see the vet. She had a skin infection on her chin and it was her limp nodes that I felt as being lumpy. I am glad that I found it, because she could have gotten really sick from the infection.
Learning to give your cat a massage has many benefits. You create a loving bond with your cat. It releases any stress and relaxes them, so they feel better. And you can even discover a condition that is not normal and have it looked at before it becomes serious.
Get your cat and discover the benefits of massage with them, maybe you will even be lucky and they will surprise you by giving you a massage.
Sharon Cowherd maintains Caring for Your Cat, a blog about her experiences and knowledge of caring for her cats. You can read more about Sharon and her cats at http://www.caringforyourcat.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sharon_Cowherd
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It was rather comical when it first started. I was lying in bed when Cuddles jumped on my back and started kneading away and purring up a storm. She was kneading with such intensity that it actually felt like I was at a spa getting a real massage.
She would not do it often, but I certainly enjoyed it when she was in her loving mood and I let her know with some extra hugs and stroking. She is gone now and the other cats have never done the kneading massage on my back, so now it is up to my husband to do the back massages.
There is another type of cat massage. It is a massage that you give your cat. You must do this with care as you do not want to turn your cat off to a wonderful bonding experience.
There are two main purposes of massaging your cat. Getting your cat to relax and for you to do a self-examination of your cat. It will also allow you to get to know your cat very well and create a special bond.
Massaging a cat can be a little tricky, depending on how touchy or loveable your cat can be with your touch. Some cats love to be rubbed down all over and some do not. It will take time for you to find the areas that your cat will allow you to do a gentle massage. Be patient and take it slow, you want it to be enjoyable for both of you.
While you are exploring with massaging your cat, notice how they feel to your touch. Get to know each area of them, at least the ones that they will allow you to touch and massage. After awhile you will notice your cat relaxing more and this will allow them to relieve any stress they have felt during the day.
Each one of my cats is different in the areas that they will allow me to massage. Tiggy is very fussy about her tummy and refuses to let me rub or massage it, so I leave it alone and just work the rest of her muscles. Cooper loves a massage anyway he can get it, as long as it is when he wants it. Leena also does not like her tummy to be rubbed or massaged, but she sure does love her neck to be rubbed.
When massaging them also pay attention to things like lumps, bumps, or anything that doesn’t feel normal. Or even a new irritation that they didn’t have with the massage before. I actually found a lump on Leena’s neck during one of her massages. I did not like how it felt, so I immediately made an appointment for her to see the vet. She had a skin infection on her chin and it was her limp nodes that I felt as being lumpy. I am glad that I found it, because she could have gotten really sick from the infection.
Learning to give your cat a massage has many benefits. You create a loving bond with your cat. It releases any stress and relaxes them, so they feel better. And you can even discover a condition that is not normal and have it looked at before it becomes serious.
Get your cat and discover the benefits of massage with them, maybe you will even be lucky and they will surprise you by giving you a massage.
Sharon Cowherd maintains Caring for Your Cat, a blog about her experiences and knowledge of caring for her cats. You can read more about Sharon and her cats at http://www.caringforyourcat.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sharon_Cowherd
Wow!
I'm here. What do you wanna say?
Have you ever experienced the tickle from one of your cat's whiskers as they brush against your face or neck? I have been tickled on many occasions from each of my cat's as they rub up against me for attention or curling up on my shoulder to go to sleep. I never really thought about what they use their whiskers for, all I really knew is that they tickled me a lot.
Besides giving each cat their own unique distinction, whiskers are a functional part of a cat. Whiskers are a sensory system for cats made up of nerve endings that allow them to feel the lightest touch, even an air current.
Cats are known to be farsighted and they will use their whiskers to move around in those areas that they are not able to see clearly. Even cats that are blind or their vision is deteriorating will rely more on their whiskers to move about. Cats that are born with their vision impaired will often have longer whiskers to help them move around. If a cat were to lose their whiskers, they would more than likely bump into things.
You also can tell the mood of your cat from their whiskers. When your cat is calm you will see that their whiskers will be pushed forward. And if your cat is stressed out or is being defensive their whiskers will be pulled closer to their face.
If you have more than one cat, have you noticed that the whiskers of each of them are not the same? The length of a cat's whiskers even varies between breeds. I currently have three cats and have noticed that each one has whiskers that are different in length to the others. I have also noticed that Tiggy my oldest cat has a few whiskers that are not all white, but have some black in them. While the other two, Leena and Cooper, have whiskers that are all white.
Most of us see the cat's whiskers above their eyes and around their mouth, also called muzzle. But did you know that they also have whiskers on the back of their front legs or what would be considered their wrists. I never knew that, but after I read about it, I looked on mine and they have them. They are not as long as the whiskers on their face, but they have them.
Whiskers do get very long and some people are tempted to trim them thinking that they should be to help the cat. But whiskers are never to be trimmed, cut, or any other method of removing them. The cats do have nerve endings in the whiskers and they will feel the trimming and it will not be pleasant for them. Have you ever touched one of the whiskers on your cat's face? Did you notice them blink or twitch? It is because their whiskers are very sensitive and should be treated with care.
Whiskers can be ticklish when applied to us in the right fashion, and they are a very distinctive characteristic on a cat. We should always leave a cat's whiskers alone, as they are their guide to moving around.
Sharon Cowherd maintains Caring for Your Cat, a blog about her experiences and knowledge of caring for her cats. You can read more about Sharon and her cats at http://www.caringforyourcat.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sharon_Cowherd
Read more
Besides giving each cat their own unique distinction, whiskers are a functional part of a cat. Whiskers are a sensory system for cats made up of nerve endings that allow them to feel the lightest touch, even an air current.
Cats are known to be farsighted and they will use their whiskers to move around in those areas that they are not able to see clearly. Even cats that are blind or their vision is deteriorating will rely more on their whiskers to move about. Cats that are born with their vision impaired will often have longer whiskers to help them move around. If a cat were to lose their whiskers, they would more than likely bump into things.
You also can tell the mood of your cat from their whiskers. When your cat is calm you will see that their whiskers will be pushed forward. And if your cat is stressed out or is being defensive their whiskers will be pulled closer to their face.
If you have more than one cat, have you noticed that the whiskers of each of them are not the same? The length of a cat's whiskers even varies between breeds. I currently have three cats and have noticed that each one has whiskers that are different in length to the others. I have also noticed that Tiggy my oldest cat has a few whiskers that are not all white, but have some black in them. While the other two, Leena and Cooper, have whiskers that are all white.
Most of us see the cat's whiskers above their eyes and around their mouth, also called muzzle. But did you know that they also have whiskers on the back of their front legs or what would be considered their wrists. I never knew that, but after I read about it, I looked on mine and they have them. They are not as long as the whiskers on their face, but they have them.
Whiskers do get very long and some people are tempted to trim them thinking that they should be to help the cat. But whiskers are never to be trimmed, cut, or any other method of removing them. The cats do have nerve endings in the whiskers and they will feel the trimming and it will not be pleasant for them. Have you ever touched one of the whiskers on your cat's face? Did you notice them blink or twitch? It is because their whiskers are very sensitive and should be treated with care.
Whiskers can be ticklish when applied to us in the right fashion, and they are a very distinctive characteristic on a cat. We should always leave a cat's whiskers alone, as they are their guide to moving around.
Sharon Cowherd maintains Caring for Your Cat, a blog about her experiences and knowledge of caring for her cats. You can read more about Sharon and her cats at http://www.caringforyourcat.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sharon_Cowherd
If you're thinking of getting a cat, you have a few options on how to keep your cat and your furniture apart. A cat's nature is to dig their claws into anything they can get a hold of and scratch around a bit. Their nails need to be worked. It just so happens that in your house, many of your pieces of furniture will seem to be a perfect place to do that for your cat. It's not really fair to scold your cat for doing something that comes natural, without offering a better option. Also in today's more animal friendly world, de-clawing your cat is not as much of a choice. So, how do you keep your cat, your furniture and your sanity?
Thankfully, there are some pieces of cat furniture you can buy that will keep you from losing your mind and keep you from losing any furniture or wanting to lose your cat. They're called cat trees. Cat trees are scratching post furniture pieces for your kitty. While some people think of just getting a little scratching board for their cat, cat trees are a better long term option, because the cat will come to recognize that the trees are their space and use them as a piece of furniture as well. Most cat trees are a structure of some sort that is covered with carpet. That is the fun surface your cat will love to dig its claws into.
As you consider cat trees, you need to know the size your cat is, and if it's going to grow any more. Good cat trees will be taller than your cat, when he stretches out, which for some cats is a long way.
While you can settle for the small cat trees that allow your cat to scratch and maybe curl up on the bottom, if you really want to make sure your cat and the cat tree are close friends, you should consider your cats other needs. Cats love to get a vantage point in a room, and they like to climb on things. Many cat trees offer this through layers and perches that your cat can get some exercise on. Others have tunnels and box areas so you cat can have their own little den to hide in, as well as a place to scratch. With how much cats sleep, 10-15 hours a day, it's only fair to give them a cozy place to curl up. Also keep in mind, most cats are not big on loud noises or too much activity, so if you have a safe space for them, it will offer an area of comfort when things get loud in the house.
When you first bring cat trees into the house, your cat will likely still choose your furniture for its clawing desires. You need to make sure to firmly say no when your kitty is clawing on your furniture, but always praise him when he decides to claw on the cat trees. Eventually he will get the picture, and leave your furniture in peace.
About the Author
Jesse Akre,author and owner of numerous sites offering home decor products offers isight on the many types of cat furniture, cat houses and cat trees.
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Cats are prehaps the easiest of all household pets to look after and the simple reason is because they are very independent, undemanding and very self sufficient, but which cat should you go for? Pedigree Cat or a Mongrel Cat?
Different Cat Breeds Pedigree Cat:
Pedigree cats are usually acquired deliberately, rather than accidentally, and tend to be more carefully supervised than most mongrels. They are perhaps more prone to suffer from over feeding and lack of exercise.
Their character is an important consideration. The foreign and Oriental breeds, particularly the Siamese, are untypical of cats in that they are loyal to one person, from whom they demand a great deal of attention in the most vocal way. Some are notorious for being very noisy cats, especially the females when calling, but their undoubted grace and intelligence outweighs this disadvantage for most people.
Orientals are also unusual in so far as they will allow themselves to be exercised on a lead. Longhaired cats, whether pedigree or mongrel, are demanding in that they should be groomed at least once every day. In fact, devotees of longhaired breeds often groom them two to three times a day.
Different Cat Breeds Mongrel Cat:
Most household cats are mongrel, and very often they have been adopted by a family on impulse. Such easily acquired cats may not have been inoculated against the infectious diseases, or may not have been wormed.
As soon as you acquire one, you should take it to your veterinary surgeon to be examined, and then neutered. It should be understood that although they may cost nothing at all to adopt, once taken into your household they will cost just as much as any other cat.
There is no reason, however, why these mongrel cats should not make delightful companions for us. Many of mongrel cats are beautiful and all are graceful in there own ways. You will find that nearly all mongrel cats are very easy to care for. Mongrel cats tend to be stronger than highly bred cats, mongrels are a product of immature parents and what you will find is that their kittens tend to be undersize.
Complete Pet Guide is committed to bringing you high quality resources and information on dog and cat pet care and training. For great articles, resource and tips try Complete Pet Guide Blog
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Peters
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Different Cat Breeds Pedigree Cat:
Pedigree cats are usually acquired deliberately, rather than accidentally, and tend to be more carefully supervised than most mongrels. They are perhaps more prone to suffer from over feeding and lack of exercise.
Their character is an important consideration. The foreign and Oriental breeds, particularly the Siamese, are untypical of cats in that they are loyal to one person, from whom they demand a great deal of attention in the most vocal way. Some are notorious for being very noisy cats, especially the females when calling, but their undoubted grace and intelligence outweighs this disadvantage for most people.
Orientals are also unusual in so far as they will allow themselves to be exercised on a lead. Longhaired cats, whether pedigree or mongrel, are demanding in that they should be groomed at least once every day. In fact, devotees of longhaired breeds often groom them two to three times a day.
Different Cat Breeds Mongrel Cat:
Most household cats are mongrel, and very often they have been adopted by a family on impulse. Such easily acquired cats may not have been inoculated against the infectious diseases, or may not have been wormed.
As soon as you acquire one, you should take it to your veterinary surgeon to be examined, and then neutered. It should be understood that although they may cost nothing at all to adopt, once taken into your household they will cost just as much as any other cat.
There is no reason, however, why these mongrel cats should not make delightful companions for us. Many of mongrel cats are beautiful and all are graceful in there own ways. You will find that nearly all mongrel cats are very easy to care for. Mongrel cats tend to be stronger than highly bred cats, mongrels are a product of immature parents and what you will find is that their kittens tend to be undersize.
Complete Pet Guide is committed to bringing you high quality resources and information on dog and cat pet care and training. For great articles, resource and tips try Complete Pet Guide Blog
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Peters
Chocolate or lilac Persians?
Can it be possible? I, as an owner, breeding Persians and exots, pose myself such a problem quite recently. Of, course they exist, if to see from genetic point of view. These colors are included into standard, there is their description, but... Where are they? By all accounts from abroad, they have such animals but for some reason they are more often met in pedigrees of British cats as experimental partners for leading new color into the breed, but not like exhibition stars. It had to spent lots of time to answer the question: "What is the real situation with Lilac and Chocolate in the Persian group?"
The paradox came to light at once: there is enough big number of Points with Chocolate and Lilac masques and practically full absence of equally colored individuals. Probably, the fashion played its role in it. After all, from the genetic point of view Lilac-Point color is more difficult in receiving than, for example, Chocolate Solid (solid-monochromatic, "firm" colour). Now, thanks to fashion's jokes, selectionists are forced to word for word take out Chocolate and Lilac either from Solid-carriers CRC (carriers of Color-Point gene) or to work simpliciter with color lines, making copulations Solids (moreover it is desirable of stronger type) with Colors and further interbreeding on the Color parents. Such copulations are made for a long time, but purposeful selection are begun recently in this direction.
Only several breeding nurseries work today in this direction:
# This is JUKI in Poland. It is world-famous nursery. But again they have Chocolate and Lilac not like purpose of selection, but like a side effect of Color-Points' breeding of modern type.
# This is Smaragd in Estonia, which specializes in Persian and Exotic cats of Lilac color and uses in the work cats from JUKI and Finnish nurseries.
# Lilac cat of strong type, reached high victories by FIFE system. Pedigree program of the nursery is various and includes copulations with Chocolate sires.
# This is Tair Polling in Ukraine, using also bloods of JUKI, but specializing, vice versa, only in Chocolates and Tabbys. You can see first kittens from this oldest Kharkov nursery in Moscow.
# This is club Irbis (FIFE) in Krasnodar, working at the Colors' bloods and carriers of Chocolate. Today the nursery Rarity of one sire, cat of Lilac color. Now you can see the first Lilac prosterity of show-quality.
# The nursery Kelisa in Sochi is the nursery of Chocolate Persians. Prosterity of the same type, thought-out pedigree program. The nursery plans the receiving of Lilac Exots and the perfection of the type.
# Several animals of Chocolate color appeared in Russia and Ukraine, but you can't see the result of breeding yet. Or these cats still too young, or the pedigree program is not thought out, giving a soon result. Chocolate Exot of Kharkov bloods lives in Saint Petersburg (owner is Orlova S.), also the city on Neva can boast of Chocolate Color-Point, imported from Poland, one more Exot from Kharkov is purchased by the nursery Dimarsh (Moscow).
# Ther are animals of modern type in Perm and Voronezh, but because of their remoteness from the capital or passivity of the owners we have a few information about them.
# The nursery Alexander-Fred (Moscow) has three Chocolate Persian cats ( of different blood lines), one Chocolate Exot, Chocolate Cream cat, and also several cats-carriers of chocolate gene. The nursery plans the receiving of Chocolate and Lilac Bicolor cats. The nursery leads common pedigree program with Kelisa (Sochi).
# Several enthusiasts in Moscow started the breeding of Chocolate and Lilac Persians, but probably they either didn't have enough means to purchase interesting sires or purposefully decided to go all the way of coming-into-being of animals' type, who originally received chocolate color by the way of interbreeding.
It is necessary to understand genetic appropriatenesses of these colors to know the rules of breeding and receiving of Lilacs and Chocolates.
Black color of the hair equally with red is considered to be the basic color. Pigment melanin in black color - eumelanin, in red - pheomelanin. All the rest various colors (except white) are only derivatives of these two. Black color of the hair is formed under the influence of gene B - black, which is defined full chromogenesis. The pigment equally assignes to the axis of hair from the root till the tip. Gene B - black of black color is prepotent, and behind it the row of recessive genes can be hiden:
# Gene brightener D (delutor - i.e. diluent), that gives an opportunity to receive from the given sire kittens of blue color. This gene is charged with distribution of pigments, their more thin location along the axis of hair, making the tone of the hair more light;
# Gene b of chocolate color ( special location of pigments along the axis of the hair) , giving an opportunity to receive from the giving animal kittens of chocolate color and, in combination with gene-brightener D, lilac color. Consideration must be given to the fact that gene b is recessive. I.e. to receive kittens of chocolate color, both of parents must be carrier of this gene, and to receive the posterity of lilac color, both of parents must have at the same time genes D and b;
# Gene of siamese color is interesting by opportunity to receive the posterity with siamese marks, including blue, chocolate and lilac colors (in the presence of genes of clarification and chocolate color at the same time).
Presence of given genes can define, studied the pedigree of sire or in practice, choosing partners with known genetics. But to receive the color, close to ideal, it is necessary to keep to the rule - to pair similar with similar. The main requirement for the quality of lilac and chocolate color is their tender, warm tone. These colors go well together, but as possible partners it is allowed to choose cats of Red, Cream colors, who give their Lilac and Chocolate progeny pinkish tint of hair and bright eye color. To Lilac and Chocolate Tabbys can be recommended Golden Tabbys as possible partners or improvers of type.
Peculiarity of today's situation in Chocolate breeding of Persian is that the task to get rid of Siamese gene became the purpose of the selectionists. At the first stage of the work it comes to the leading this gene into the recessive state. In future, numerous copulations of Chocolates and Lilacs 'inside them' will allow to clear up the color gene of the population.
It would seem that there is nothing simplier to pair Lilac-Point with Red cat, and then interbreed littermates between each other. But the question of the type stands the most sharply in Persians than in other breeds. That's why such way is inconvinient - doing the step forward, it has to do two steps back. What we have to do? Very often animals of black color, especially in extreme breeds are the carriers of the strongest, modern type, that's why they are used as improvers in the breeding of animals of different colors such as Points, Smokes, Bicolors and even Chinchillas. That's why it is appropriate to attract exactly them (or Tortoiseshell cats, received from black, high-class sires) to the chocolate program.
Extract from the standard of Persian colors WCF (edition by 1995)
PER b CHOCOLATE Color: All colors of brown are accepted, without rust, white hairs or picture. Without grey undercoat, color must be equal. Lobe of the nose: Color of milky chocolate Pads: Color of cinnamon or chocolate Eye color: Copper or deep-orange
PER c LILAC Color: Color of hair is pale lilac with light pink shimmer, without white hairs or picture. Without grey undercoat, color must be equal. Lobe of the nose: Lilac Pads: Lilac-pink Eye color: Copper or deep-orange
Today the interest to the rare Persian colors increases. That's why I hope that very soon we can often see the rarest and the most mysterious Chocolates and Lilacs on the shows!
About the Author
If you want to see more information about Persian cats, please visit this site Persian cat Club
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Scratching is natural cat behavior, so attempts to stop cats from this behavior are futile. But, there are actions that you can take to preserve your furniture and peace of mind. Kittens start scratching when they are about eight weeks old. Begin training the kitten on appropriate places to scratch at this time to head off problems as she grows.
Be sure that your cat has scratching toys available. You may have to try several versions to find the type that your cat prefers as there are different styles such as horizontal, vertical and slanted. And, there are various textures for the covering such as cardboard, sisal or carpet. It's best to have multiple styles available for variety, especially if you have more than one cat.
If your cat insists on clawing your furniture despite the toys you have provided, there are several ideas that you can try to get the cat to stop. If convenient, close off the room that houses the offending piece of furniture. Put the scratching toy in front of the item that you don't want your cat to scratch. Then, place catnip or treats on the scratching toy or attach another one of the cat's favorite toys to entice your cat to use the toy instead of your sofa.
Cover the item that you don't want the cat to scratch with foil, sandpaper, double-sided tape, or cat-repelling scents to discourage your cat from damaging your possession. If you see the cat scratching inappropriately, clap your hands or spray your cat with water to startle your cat so that you can redirect her to the scratching toy.
Keep your cat's nails trimmed every two weeks. If nails get too long, the cat will scratch more since she can't retract them into her paws.
Another option that will stop scratching damage is to apply plastic nail covers to the cat's nails. Then, when the cat scratches, she won't be able to do any damage.
Many owners consider declawing when a cat is scratching destructively. Since declawing is painful and actually involves partial amputation of the cat's toe, this should be done as a last resort.
You can keep your furniture and drapes looking nice when you have a cat. By providing enticing scratching options for your pet, redirecting her from inappropriate scratching, and keeping her nails trimmed, you can get your cat to stop scratching your furniture.
Learn more about cat behavior, cat-related products and other cat topics at http://www.felineinfo.com/blog
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Annie_Clark
Read more
Be sure that your cat has scratching toys available. You may have to try several versions to find the type that your cat prefers as there are different styles such as horizontal, vertical and slanted. And, there are various textures for the covering such as cardboard, sisal or carpet. It's best to have multiple styles available for variety, especially if you have more than one cat.
If your cat insists on clawing your furniture despite the toys you have provided, there are several ideas that you can try to get the cat to stop. If convenient, close off the room that houses the offending piece of furniture. Put the scratching toy in front of the item that you don't want your cat to scratch. Then, place catnip or treats on the scratching toy or attach another one of the cat's favorite toys to entice your cat to use the toy instead of your sofa.
Cover the item that you don't want the cat to scratch with foil, sandpaper, double-sided tape, or cat-repelling scents to discourage your cat from damaging your possession. If you see the cat scratching inappropriately, clap your hands or spray your cat with water to startle your cat so that you can redirect her to the scratching toy.
Keep your cat's nails trimmed every two weeks. If nails get too long, the cat will scratch more since she can't retract them into her paws.
Another option that will stop scratching damage is to apply plastic nail covers to the cat's nails. Then, when the cat scratches, she won't be able to do any damage.
Many owners consider declawing when a cat is scratching destructively. Since declawing is painful and actually involves partial amputation of the cat's toe, this should be done as a last resort.
You can keep your furniture and drapes looking nice when you have a cat. By providing enticing scratching options for your pet, redirecting her from inappropriate scratching, and keeping her nails trimmed, you can get your cat to stop scratching your furniture.
Learn more about cat behavior, cat-related products and other cat topics at http://www.felineinfo.com/blog
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Annie_Clark
He doesn't understand Engish (although he certainly acts like he does sometimes). I thought he knew extactly what I was saying. He actually learns by experience. He learned to jump up on the coffee table because "Daddy" rewarded him with what he really craves: love and attention.
We all love our cat for who he is. He has his likes, dislikes and personality. He is unique! Most of his behavior we enjoy: he is affectionate, loves to play and adores us. He becomes a part of the family and we couldn't imagine our lives without him.
I have a neurotic kitty. I thought I was the only one until I started doing some research to help him and I live in the same house. I found out alot of cat-owners have the same problems. Cats are independent and aloof. Some are high-strung and most just want to do their own thing, which may include jumping on the kitchen table during dinner, climbing the drapes, and hiding under the furniture when he's scared.
Smokey Joe is my cat's name. He is a 3yr old siamese (who are famous for their independence and constant meowing for attention). Of course, Smokey does these things, being an tried and true Siamese, he could act no other way. He also wants to play ALL the time and when he plays he turns into a "wild cat"- all teeth and claws! He has been known to attack without warning. This kind of behavior I would like to discourage. Of more importance, I want to make Smokey Joe's surroundings comfortable for him. I want him to feel safe in his home.
Smokey and I have a loving, mutually soothing relationship. He's learned loving comes from "Mom" and playtime?-that's "Dad"-time. After all, dads are for rough-housing and he has the scratches to prove it!
Smokey is a territorial cat and he is constantly on guard for intruders. He's and indoor cat who used to be an outdoor cat. He watches mostly for other cats. He's also a predator, a hunter and I think that sometimes when he's staring out the window he's chasing birds in his imagination.
What I find works well for us is positive reinforcement. I give him love and pets when he's doing what is acceptable. I use a loud rough voice when I see him acting bad. It seems to work for us.
Of course, it's not exactly that simple and I needed help. Learning how my cat thinks and reacts to me and others helped alot. I learned about stressors, aggression and numerous other things that can affect my cat's mood and how to deal with it. Kitty and I now live
About the Author
Lori learned lots about training your cat
You walk in your home after being gone for a short time, or all day from work and your cat has taken over the house. The drapes are hanging not where they should be, a cup was tipped over with the last few drops of coffee that has left a stain in the carpet.
The morning paper, which you were unable to finish reading, is torn in shreds. Now is the time to put a stop to all of that and train your cat. When you get home at night after work or gone for a short time, you can come home to a nice quiet, clean home and a healthily content cat.
Do not start by scolding your cat for all the mischief they gotten into while you where gone. A cat cannot remember that far back. Do not reward your cat for the wrong behaviors. Also, do not go running after the cat, this leads them to think you are playing with them and that is what they are looking for. Catching them in the act of doing these things is a good time to let your cat know that is not acceptable to do that.
Rewarding your cat when they have the good behavior is the best time. Sometimes if you have a real big problem with your cats’ attitude, there are other options. You can purchase a kennel to put your cat in there for short periods. On the other hand, even get them a kitty psychiatrist to start addressing their bad behaviors.
Starts when getting home spend some time with your cat relaxing. Cats can also help us to relax; it is known that a cat could help lower our blood pressure. Massaging your cat is another way of showing them you do care about them and helps them to relax, by knowing you will take good care of them.
A cat that is bored or lonely will have a tendency to do things when you are gone. Make a safe and happy environment when you are gone for your cat. Their special toys, strings items they play with. A ball, a scratching tree to climb on, an empty box of some type so they have a place to hide and play with. Your cat can do many things while you are gone and not destroy your home. Make them a perch somewhere near a window to have a place to look out, watch for you and to sunbathe.
When teaching the cat the right behaviors you will need to help them with this. Cats will not exercise themselves. Take time out each day and play with you cat. Teaching your cat how to play with the toys and item that you give them. Rewarding your cat for good behaviors, with a healthy treat or special toy or just a simple massage will also be rewarding for a cat.
A healthy cat can learn good behaviors; this is why it is important for regular visits to the veterinarian. Cats require shots, and healthy food for them. A cat that is lazy and fat is not a healthy cat. Cats will not behave well for you and will be almost impossible to train. It is important to feed healthy foods and snacks to your cat. This will help continue to build healthy bone and muscles for playtime and continue to let the brain develop so that training comes easier as you go.
There are natural supplements that are not a drug that which can be given to the cat to help with its fears and aggressions control. Older cats are harder to train for new behaviors then kittens are. When they are young, they are not sure what is right and wrong. Kittens are born with some instincts that are not good behaviors. Kittens have a tendency to be more playful and will get into more things. This is why it is very important to start your cat at very young age to teach them good behaviors, and keep them from having bad ones.
Remember when your cat is running in circles, or having a bad day. Don’t do as the cat does. Relax yourself and your cat.
I would love to share my secrets with you and my new special articles on cat training do just that! Everything you need to know to train your cat is included in these special reports: See our section on Cat Breeds. All reports are available from my new cat training articles site
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Neil_Groom
Read more
The morning paper, which you were unable to finish reading, is torn in shreds. Now is the time to put a stop to all of that and train your cat. When you get home at night after work or gone for a short time, you can come home to a nice quiet, clean home and a healthily content cat.
Do not start by scolding your cat for all the mischief they gotten into while you where gone. A cat cannot remember that far back. Do not reward your cat for the wrong behaviors. Also, do not go running after the cat, this leads them to think you are playing with them and that is what they are looking for. Catching them in the act of doing these things is a good time to let your cat know that is not acceptable to do that.
Rewarding your cat when they have the good behavior is the best time. Sometimes if you have a real big problem with your cats’ attitude, there are other options. You can purchase a kennel to put your cat in there for short periods. On the other hand, even get them a kitty psychiatrist to start addressing their bad behaviors.
Starts when getting home spend some time with your cat relaxing. Cats can also help us to relax; it is known that a cat could help lower our blood pressure. Massaging your cat is another way of showing them you do care about them and helps them to relax, by knowing you will take good care of them.
A cat that is bored or lonely will have a tendency to do things when you are gone. Make a safe and happy environment when you are gone for your cat. Their special toys, strings items they play with. A ball, a scratching tree to climb on, an empty box of some type so they have a place to hide and play with. Your cat can do many things while you are gone and not destroy your home. Make them a perch somewhere near a window to have a place to look out, watch for you and to sunbathe.
When teaching the cat the right behaviors you will need to help them with this. Cats will not exercise themselves. Take time out each day and play with you cat. Teaching your cat how to play with the toys and item that you give them. Rewarding your cat for good behaviors, with a healthy treat or special toy or just a simple massage will also be rewarding for a cat.
A healthy cat can learn good behaviors; this is why it is important for regular visits to the veterinarian. Cats require shots, and healthy food for them. A cat that is lazy and fat is not a healthy cat. Cats will not behave well for you and will be almost impossible to train. It is important to feed healthy foods and snacks to your cat. This will help continue to build healthy bone and muscles for playtime and continue to let the brain develop so that training comes easier as you go.
There are natural supplements that are not a drug that which can be given to the cat to help with its fears and aggressions control. Older cats are harder to train for new behaviors then kittens are. When they are young, they are not sure what is right and wrong. Kittens are born with some instincts that are not good behaviors. Kittens have a tendency to be more playful and will get into more things. This is why it is very important to start your cat at very young age to teach them good behaviors, and keep them from having bad ones.
Remember when your cat is running in circles, or having a bad day. Don’t do as the cat does. Relax yourself and your cat.
I would love to share my secrets with you and my new special articles on cat training do just that! Everything you need to know to train your cat is included in these special reports: See our section on Cat Breeds. All reports are available from my new cat training articles site
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Neil_Groom
Many of us are allergic to cats or have family members who are allergic. Some of us are unlucky enough that we also have asthma but we still want to live with our cats or visit people with cats.
Many people automatically assume they are having a cat allergy when the allergic reaction is being caused by something else. It's very important to visit an allergist and have a scratch test done to determine exactly what your specific allergens are.
If someone tests positive for cat allergies, there are things that can be done which will help alleviate the symptoms without getting rid of the cat. Here are a few things that can help:
# feed a high quality food to minimize dander and shedding
# wipe the cat down with a damp cloth every few days
# optimally remove carpeting from the home. If this is not an option then frequent vacuuming with a HEPA vac will help.
# invest in a HEPA air filter
# restrict cats from sleeping areas
# take allergy medications as directed by your allergist
# try desensitization therapy
I hope these tips help you or someone you know who suffers from cat allergies.
To discuss this subject, please visit Siamese and Bengal Cats.
Tamara
Siamese & Bengal Cats
About the Author
articles copyright TamaraRae.com
We are different!
One of the most frustrating things about owning a cat is the unacceptable behaviour of inappropriate urination. I know this as I have experienced this problem first hand. It can drive you nuts especially if your cat has previously been meticulous about using the litter box.
What inappropriate urination means is that your cat decides to urinate in places other than his litter box. He might decide that your carpet or furniture is a suitable place to eliminate. However if you are able to understand the reasons behind this behaviour then you will be able to employ restraining techniques or perhaps medical therapy, which will in most cases result in the behaviour being resolved.
To understand this behaviour then you need to know that there are two types of inappropriate urination. The first one is house soiling where the cat will use your carpet/floor as he would his litter box, by scratching and squatting and then releasing a puddle of urine. He may even try to cover the puddle after he is finished.
The second type is spraying where your cat will back up to a surface and let loose a small amount of urine. This is usually done as a display of territorial or sexual behaviour and doesn't have anything to do with whether he has a need for urination.
If your cat starts displaying this behaviour you should get him examined by your vet so as to rule out any underlying medical problem that may be the cause of the problem. If there is a medical problem then this needs to be addressed first before any behaviour modification takes place. If your cat has a problem that is causing him pain on urination he will avoid the litter box as he will think that this is what is causing him pain. The likely cause of painful urination is cystitis which is inflammation of the bladder.
If your cat is older then he may be suffering from arthritis. If this is the case getting in and out of the litter box is probably painful for him and he will find other places to urinate that don't require him to lift his legs. Other disorders such as diabetes and hyperthyroidism can cause your cat to drink more therefore produce more urine. The need to go will increase and your cat may not be able to make it to the litter box in time.
Other reasons for your cat to develop an inappropriate urination problem:
It could be that the litter box is dirty. Cats don't like to use a dirty litter box so you should change the litter daily making sure to wash the litter box in hot soapy water at least every couple of day.
Your cat may not like the brand of litter you use. Or he may not like the location of the litter box.
Stress is another cause of this problem. Cats are creatures of habit, they don't like disruptions to there daily routine. If you have multiple cats this can cause stress. Some cats don't like sharing the litter box with other cats and will look for other places to urinate. You may find pooping is also a problem in a household with several cats. Urination problems are hardest to solve in a household with multiple cats. Not impossible, but harder.
If you have had your cat de-clawed then it may be too painful for him to scratch in the litter. De-clawing is a very painful procedure and it is not recommended that you do it. De-clawing is essentially an amputation of not just the claws, but the whole phalanx, that is up to the joint, including bones, ligaments and tendons. If you catch your cat in the act of urinating in an inappropriate place don't yell at him or chastise him as this will only add to the stress he is feeling and will make the situation worse. Instead pick him up and take to the litter box a place him in it so that he knows what you want him to do.
In the majority of cases, the problem may be resolved if the primary cause can be treated. To read the second half of this article please go to the address in the resource box below. There I will discuss the types of urination behaviours in more depth and I will offer some solutions to the problem.
Jennifer Laurie has been involved with Cats all her life and has a wealth of information to share with you. To read more helpful advice and solutions to this problem please go to Remove Cat Urine Information
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Laurie
Read more
What inappropriate urination means is that your cat decides to urinate in places other than his litter box. He might decide that your carpet or furniture is a suitable place to eliminate. However if you are able to understand the reasons behind this behaviour then you will be able to employ restraining techniques or perhaps medical therapy, which will in most cases result in the behaviour being resolved.
To understand this behaviour then you need to know that there are two types of inappropriate urination. The first one is house soiling where the cat will use your carpet/floor as he would his litter box, by scratching and squatting and then releasing a puddle of urine. He may even try to cover the puddle after he is finished.
The second type is spraying where your cat will back up to a surface and let loose a small amount of urine. This is usually done as a display of territorial or sexual behaviour and doesn't have anything to do with whether he has a need for urination.
If your cat starts displaying this behaviour you should get him examined by your vet so as to rule out any underlying medical problem that may be the cause of the problem. If there is a medical problem then this needs to be addressed first before any behaviour modification takes place. If your cat has a problem that is causing him pain on urination he will avoid the litter box as he will think that this is what is causing him pain. The likely cause of painful urination is cystitis which is inflammation of the bladder.
If your cat is older then he may be suffering from arthritis. If this is the case getting in and out of the litter box is probably painful for him and he will find other places to urinate that don't require him to lift his legs. Other disorders such as diabetes and hyperthyroidism can cause your cat to drink more therefore produce more urine. The need to go will increase and your cat may not be able to make it to the litter box in time.
Other reasons for your cat to develop an inappropriate urination problem:
It could be that the litter box is dirty. Cats don't like to use a dirty litter box so you should change the litter daily making sure to wash the litter box in hot soapy water at least every couple of day.
Your cat may not like the brand of litter you use. Or he may not like the location of the litter box.
Stress is another cause of this problem. Cats are creatures of habit, they don't like disruptions to there daily routine. If you have multiple cats this can cause stress. Some cats don't like sharing the litter box with other cats and will look for other places to urinate. You may find pooping is also a problem in a household with several cats. Urination problems are hardest to solve in a household with multiple cats. Not impossible, but harder.
If you have had your cat de-clawed then it may be too painful for him to scratch in the litter. De-clawing is a very painful procedure and it is not recommended that you do it. De-clawing is essentially an amputation of not just the claws, but the whole phalanx, that is up to the joint, including bones, ligaments and tendons. If you catch your cat in the act of urinating in an inappropriate place don't yell at him or chastise him as this will only add to the stress he is feeling and will make the situation worse. Instead pick him up and take to the litter box a place him in it so that he knows what you want him to do.
In the majority of cases, the problem may be resolved if the primary cause can be treated. To read the second half of this article please go to the address in the resource box below. There I will discuss the types of urination behaviours in more depth and I will offer some solutions to the problem.
Jennifer Laurie has been involved with Cats all her life and has a wealth of information to share with you. To read more helpful advice and solutions to this problem please go to Remove Cat Urine Information
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Laurie
Toilet training your cat is an attainable feat, made even more famous by Mr. Jinxy in the movie Meet The Parents. Cats make wonderful pets, however dealing with a litter box is never a pleasant experience. Instead of dealing with a foul smelling litter box, here's how to toilet train your cat in a few simple steps.
Preparation
During the training process, it is best to have two toilets in the house. The first toilet will be set up for the cat's use only during the training process and any additional toilets will be used by you. Setting it up this way, makes it far easier for the cat in terms of convenience, conditioning, and practice as different toilets may have different heights and strengths of flush handles. If you only have one toilet, training can still be achieved by following the steps below.
It is important to note that your cat will need to balance on the toilet seat at some point during the training and therefore you should not attempt to train cats that are kittens or too young. It is ideal to wait until your cat is at least six (6) months old, because at this point your cat should have the ability to balance on the toilet seat.
Materials
You will need two aluminum trays: One aluminum tray will fit into the toilet and an additional aluminum tray will replace your cat's litter box. The purpose of this is to condition the cat to use the aluminum tray in the spot where his litter box was kept and then when the transition is made to the toilet, the aluminum tray will seem normal to your cat.
You will also need flushable litter that the cat will become accustomed to. This litter must be flushable because some of it may fall into the toilet during the training process.
The Litter Box
The original litter box must be kept in its original place, however replace the physical litter box with the aluminum tray. Also, use the same litter that the cat is accustomed to. The only difference in the cat's new litter setup is the aluminum litter box replaces the original litter box.
Patience Is Key
Allow your cat a few days to become accustomed to the new aluminum litter box. Once the cat is comfortable, gradually move the litter box closer to the toilet. Depending on your cat's reaction, this may be done daily, weekly or monthly. You must not move the litter box too far or to fast. Also, you must ensure that your cat can locate the litter box, even if it is necessary to physically place your cat's paws in the litter box. Remember, patience is key, training your cat to use a litter box, let alone a toilet is a process that could take some time.
When the cat is finally using the litter box directly next to or against the toilet, raise the litter box about 2-4 inches off of the floor. Ensure that the litter box is on a safe and stable platform and your cat has sufficient room to maneuver around the litter box and use it comfortably. As the cat becomes comfortable with this stage, continue raise the litter box 1-2 inches each time until the box is level with the toilet. As the box gets higher and higher, stability is critical due to the fact that your cat will need to jump onto the box. Should your cat jump onto the box and the box fall, it could scare your cat into not wanting to attempt it again.
When you have successful reached this stage, the litter tray in the toilet should be added. For the aluminum litter try, many common cooking trays wide enough to fit in to the toilet can be used. Gently place the tray in between the ring and the toilet base. Again, stability is critical and make sure that it is held firmly in place. Next, place the same litter you have been using with the cat into the tray.
Using The Toilet
Over the next couple of weeks, leave the litter box level with the tray inside the toilet. Once the cat is accustomed to this, slowly begin reducing the amount of the litter in the box. As the litter gets lower and lower, make a small hole in the aluminum litter box. As the litter gets lower, the hole should get bigger. It is important to take this process very slow as your cat may feel uncomfortable should you go to fast. Eventually, there will be a an aluminum litter box with no litter and a good size hole. Let your cat use this for a couple weeks and then remove the aluminum tray. Your cat will be fully toilet trained.
An important point is that your toilet seat must always remain up, because your cat will not be able to lift the toilet seat itself and consistently leaving the seat down may frustrate your cat.
Remember this toilet training process may take several months and it is important to be patient. The rewards for you and your cat once training is achieved are remarkable. The litter smell and consistent changing of the box are eliminated and the cat will remain toilet trained for many years to come.
Marvin recommends reviewing the Toilet Train My Cat eBook. as well as the accompanying video and pictures to further your understanding of how to toilet train your cat.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marvin_Charles
Read more
Preparation
During the training process, it is best to have two toilets in the house. The first toilet will be set up for the cat's use only during the training process and any additional toilets will be used by you. Setting it up this way, makes it far easier for the cat in terms of convenience, conditioning, and practice as different toilets may have different heights and strengths of flush handles. If you only have one toilet, training can still be achieved by following the steps below.
It is important to note that your cat will need to balance on the toilet seat at some point during the training and therefore you should not attempt to train cats that are kittens or too young. It is ideal to wait until your cat is at least six (6) months old, because at this point your cat should have the ability to balance on the toilet seat.
Materials
You will need two aluminum trays: One aluminum tray will fit into the toilet and an additional aluminum tray will replace your cat's litter box. The purpose of this is to condition the cat to use the aluminum tray in the spot where his litter box was kept and then when the transition is made to the toilet, the aluminum tray will seem normal to your cat.
You will also need flushable litter that the cat will become accustomed to. This litter must be flushable because some of it may fall into the toilet during the training process.
The Litter Box
The original litter box must be kept in its original place, however replace the physical litter box with the aluminum tray. Also, use the same litter that the cat is accustomed to. The only difference in the cat's new litter setup is the aluminum litter box replaces the original litter box.
Patience Is Key
Allow your cat a few days to become accustomed to the new aluminum litter box. Once the cat is comfortable, gradually move the litter box closer to the toilet. Depending on your cat's reaction, this may be done daily, weekly or monthly. You must not move the litter box too far or to fast. Also, you must ensure that your cat can locate the litter box, even if it is necessary to physically place your cat's paws in the litter box. Remember, patience is key, training your cat to use a litter box, let alone a toilet is a process that could take some time.
When the cat is finally using the litter box directly next to or against the toilet, raise the litter box about 2-4 inches off of the floor. Ensure that the litter box is on a safe and stable platform and your cat has sufficient room to maneuver around the litter box and use it comfortably. As the cat becomes comfortable with this stage, continue raise the litter box 1-2 inches each time until the box is level with the toilet. As the box gets higher and higher, stability is critical due to the fact that your cat will need to jump onto the box. Should your cat jump onto the box and the box fall, it could scare your cat into not wanting to attempt it again.
When you have successful reached this stage, the litter tray in the toilet should be added. For the aluminum litter try, many common cooking trays wide enough to fit in to the toilet can be used. Gently place the tray in between the ring and the toilet base. Again, stability is critical and make sure that it is held firmly in place. Next, place the same litter you have been using with the cat into the tray.
Using The Toilet
Over the next couple of weeks, leave the litter box level with the tray inside the toilet. Once the cat is accustomed to this, slowly begin reducing the amount of the litter in the box. As the litter gets lower and lower, make a small hole in the aluminum litter box. As the litter gets lower, the hole should get bigger. It is important to take this process very slow as your cat may feel uncomfortable should you go to fast. Eventually, there will be a an aluminum litter box with no litter and a good size hole. Let your cat use this for a couple weeks and then remove the aluminum tray. Your cat will be fully toilet trained.
An important point is that your toilet seat must always remain up, because your cat will not be able to lift the toilet seat itself and consistently leaving the seat down may frustrate your cat.
Remember this toilet training process may take several months and it is important to be patient. The rewards for you and your cat once training is achieved are remarkable. The litter smell and consistent changing of the box are eliminated and the cat will remain toilet trained for many years to come.
Marvin recommends reviewing the Toilet Train My Cat eBook. as well as the accompanying video and pictures to further your understanding of how to toilet train your cat.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marvin_Charles
Cats are fascinating and adorable pets that offer a companionship that is hard to beat. But there is more to your cat then purring and curling up in your lap. At times, they can be a pain in butt to the household too. Scratched furnishings, ripped curtains, spraying urine on objects are just a few things that misbehaving cats can do. Cat behavior problems are number one reason why cat owners seek veterinary advice. Yet, many problems can easily be solved by understanding why they misbehave and applying simple cat training methods.
So what are the causes of misbehaving and what can you do about it?
Entire cats misbehave when they are sexually motivated
When the mating time comes your cat can exhibit extremely unpleasant behavior like spraying urine on various objects, meowing loudly in the middle of the night and getting involved in cat fights.
The answer is straight forward: get your cat neutered as soon as possible. It may take a little while until you see an improvement as the body needs some time to adjust to hormonal changes.
Cats misbehave when owners don't answer to their basic needs
Cats devote a lot of time to their body hygiene and they are very fussy when it comes down to the toilet business. They like their litter box clean and out of the way. They don't like other cats using their box and they can be very picky about the litter. If something about the litter box doesn't suit them, be it location, scent or the litter, they simply will find another suitable "toilet".
Keep the litter box clean. Wash it at least once a week and rinse well to remove remnants of detergent. Place it in an easily accessible and secluded place and fill it with unscented litter. Don't overfill.
Scratching is a perfectly natural cat behavior that keeps their claws in shape and furthermore is used to mark the territory. If you fail to provide a suitable scratch post, it will be party time on your furniture!
Cats misbehave when they are bored
When cats are bored stiff they will do naughty things because they need to get rid of their energy in some way. Chasing around the house like mad, running up the curtains and knocking things over will help them to do just that.
Boredom can be solved by spending more time with the cat. Playing with it regularly will not only help your cat to get rid of excess energy but it also proves beneficial in establishing a firmer bond. However, do not play immediately after your cat misbehaved otherwise the cat may associate its misbehavior with you giving it more attention.
Cats just love to play with certain things
It may be a plastic bag, a curtain, your table cloth or anything else. They also hate certain smells so this could come in handy for you. Spray unpleasant smells like lavender, citronella or a commercial repellent on those things to deter them.
Cat behavior training requires understanding, patience and consistency, but the results can be very rewarding. And after all, your cat is worth it!
Sarah owns Cat Behavior Problems Site where people can find useful training tips & advice on cat behavior problems
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sara_Williams
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So what are the causes of misbehaving and what can you do about it?
Entire cats misbehave when they are sexually motivated
When the mating time comes your cat can exhibit extremely unpleasant behavior like spraying urine on various objects, meowing loudly in the middle of the night and getting involved in cat fights.
The answer is straight forward: get your cat neutered as soon as possible. It may take a little while until you see an improvement as the body needs some time to adjust to hormonal changes.
Cats misbehave when owners don't answer to their basic needs
Cats devote a lot of time to their body hygiene and they are very fussy when it comes down to the toilet business. They like their litter box clean and out of the way. They don't like other cats using their box and they can be very picky about the litter. If something about the litter box doesn't suit them, be it location, scent or the litter, they simply will find another suitable "toilet".
Keep the litter box clean. Wash it at least once a week and rinse well to remove remnants of detergent. Place it in an easily accessible and secluded place and fill it with unscented litter. Don't overfill.
Scratching is a perfectly natural cat behavior that keeps their claws in shape and furthermore is used to mark the territory. If you fail to provide a suitable scratch post, it will be party time on your furniture!
Cats misbehave when they are bored
When cats are bored stiff they will do naughty things because they need to get rid of their energy in some way. Chasing around the house like mad, running up the curtains and knocking things over will help them to do just that.
Boredom can be solved by spending more time with the cat. Playing with it regularly will not only help your cat to get rid of excess energy but it also proves beneficial in establishing a firmer bond. However, do not play immediately after your cat misbehaved otherwise the cat may associate its misbehavior with you giving it more attention.
Cats just love to play with certain things
It may be a plastic bag, a curtain, your table cloth or anything else. They also hate certain smells so this could come in handy for you. Spray unpleasant smells like lavender, citronella or a commercial repellent on those things to deter them.
Cat behavior training requires understanding, patience and consistency, but the results can be very rewarding. And after all, your cat is worth it!
Sarah owns Cat Behavior Problems Site where people can find useful training tips & advice on cat behavior problems
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sara_Williams
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