What is it?
Christmas time is the time of year where we lavishly decorate our homes with twinkling lights and coloured decorations. Our centrepiece is a wonderful scented fir tree, which we cover with spangle balls and tempting chocolates. All these things help to make our homes feel cosy and warm and traditionally seasonal. Unfortunately we are not the only ones attracted by the tinsel and the light, our cats with their highly inquisitiveness are also going to take particular interest in all our Christmas excess and sparkle. But lurking within those Christmas celebrations are hidden dangers for our furry friends.
So with our pet cats in mind, we should decorate our homes this Christmas with care and put in place precautions to keep them safe. Things to consider are:
Holly, Mistletoe and Poinsettias - these are all plants that we traditionally like to bring into our homes during the Christmas period. Unfortunately all these plants are toxic to cats and if eaten can cause serious illness. So always ensure that these plants are not accessible to your cats, place them on high shelves or drape them over centre light fittings. But if you have a cat that is very agile and inquisitive it may be safest not to bring these plants into the house.
Christmas trees - It is practically impossible to stop your cat from exploring this new and interesting item. The only thing you can do is to make sure that it as safe as absolutely possible and that the cat is not allowed access to it alone. A few measures to take are:
Have a tree that does not shed its needles too quickly if at all. Some fir trees don't shed, while others have particularly spike needles that are perfect for getting in soft paws and worse still being eaten.
Make sure the tree is firmly secured and will not tip over.
Place breakable decorations further up the tree and not in the lower branches where they become new play things for your cat.
Spray some strong smelling liquid onto the and around the base of the tree. Diluted Lemon juice is good and will help to deter kitty coming too close.
Tinsel and other Christmas decorations - Always place decorations especially tinsel out of the cats reach. It is just too tempting for your cat and if swallowed cat cause blockages.
Artificial snow - this is toxic to cats, so should be avoided if possible. If you must have it, make sure your cat is not left alone in a room with it, especially at nighttime.
Another danger to look out for during the Christmas period is visitors or family members giving chocolates to your cat. They may think they are giving them a treat but actually they are poisoning them. Chocolate contains methylxanthines and theobromines, which are very toxic for both cats and dogs; it over stimulates their nervous system and cardiovascular system. Always keep chocolates covered up and out of reach of your pets, also let guests know about the dangers.
Symptoms of eating chocolate are vomiting, hyperactivity, diarrhoea, agitation and frequent urination. If you suspect that your cat has eaten some chocolate and is showing some signs of illness they should be taken to the vets immediately. In the worse case scenario, death can occur and all from eating a few charismas chocolates. So extra special care should be taken to keep such goodies away from our pets.
Amongst al the celebrates and visitors it is easy for your cat to begin to feel a little neglected and even scared, especially if there is a lot of noise and unexpected people in the house. Always try to find some time during all the Christmas day mayhem to pay them some attention. It is also a good idea to put aside a separate room for your cat to retreat to if you are expecting a lot of guests. Place in the room somewhere warm for them to sleep, a few of their favourite toys and make sure they have a clean litter tray and some water available. So if your cat decided that it is all too much for them they can be placed in this room and be kept safe and comfortable until things return to normal.
We might like Christmas and all it's fuss and glitter, but your cat may not feel the same way especially if we don't pay particular attention to their needs during this time.
More cat health and cat care tips can be found at our site http://www.our-happy-cat.com A feline friendly community full of helpful advice and fun things to do to make sure you have a happy cat and a happy you.
Copyright 2007 Kate Tilmouth
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kate_Tilmouth
Bringing home a kitten is a great addition to any family. But don't forget these following items, food dish with a design that fits your cat's fashion, and of course the litter box. Food would also be helpful. If you have all of these items you're all set for the kitten to come into your home.
Maybe not after all. In the beginning your kitty explored all over the house, consumed way too much food, and has been using his litter box with no accidents at all. Recently, however, you've realized your kitten is starting to have problems that you had not anticipated before.
Maybe there are a few more items that you want to take into account when overcoming these unwanted cat problems. Believe me; many other have already come across the necessity of some basic tips on kitten training to better the behavior of their new kitten.
So how do you go about kitten training when every time you turn around kitten is jumping off the walls, attacking your feet and hands, jumping on the countertops and tables to use as a wrestling arena, and that new furniture you just bought is now well on its way to being shredded in two.
Relax. Many a pet owner has been appalled to find that his or her sweet little kitten has turned into a fearsome beast! You can handle this, and your initial step will be to pick up a few necessary items. The first is a scratching post. Don't spend lavishly on a fancy one, since an ordinary one from your neighborhood pet store or department store will be just fine.
What if the monster kitten is still destroying furniture? When you catch him, rub his paws up and down the scratching post, using the same motion he used on the sofa. When done, make sure you praise him for using the post! Repeat this process as many times as needed until your new family member uses his post- and not the furniture- to sharpen those claws!
If you want to be able to keep your kitty in line, fill an aluminum can with rocks and put tape over the front. The next time you see your kitten doing something he shouldn't be doing, shake the can vigorously. The loud sound will scare him and he will develop an association between the scary sound and doing something wrong.
And a final note in kitten training is how to deal with the age old issue of kitten bites. Whenever you catch your kitten becoming unruly with your hands or feet give him a toy to replace your skin with. Any standard kitten toy will do such as a fur mouse or jingle bell ball.
Okay. You now know the essential elements of kitten training. Remember to let your kitten know how much you love him or her. Praise your pet for good behavior. Use positive reinforcement to create a strong bond with your cat for years to come. Your kitten and you, both, will be happier. Your pet will give you hours of enjoyment and will show you unconditional love.
About the Author
Bringing home a kitten is a great addition to any family. But don't forget these following items: a food dish, food, water bowl, and of course the litter box. When trying to correct cat problems, there are a few more things you should consider doing.
Read more
Maybe not after all. In the beginning your kitty explored all over the house, consumed way too much food, and has been using his litter box with no accidents at all. Recently, however, you've realized your kitten is starting to have problems that you had not anticipated before.
Maybe there are a few more items that you want to take into account when overcoming these unwanted cat problems. Believe me; many other have already come across the necessity of some basic tips on kitten training to better the behavior of their new kitten.
So how do you go about kitten training when every time you turn around kitten is jumping off the walls, attacking your feet and hands, jumping on the countertops and tables to use as a wrestling arena, and that new furniture you just bought is now well on its way to being shredded in two.
Relax. Many a pet owner has been appalled to find that his or her sweet little kitten has turned into a fearsome beast! You can handle this, and your initial step will be to pick up a few necessary items. The first is a scratching post. Don't spend lavishly on a fancy one, since an ordinary one from your neighborhood pet store or department store will be just fine.
What if the monster kitten is still destroying furniture? When you catch him, rub his paws up and down the scratching post, using the same motion he used on the sofa. When done, make sure you praise him for using the post! Repeat this process as many times as needed until your new family member uses his post- and not the furniture- to sharpen those claws!
If you want to be able to keep your kitty in line, fill an aluminum can with rocks and put tape over the front. The next time you see your kitten doing something he shouldn't be doing, shake the can vigorously. The loud sound will scare him and he will develop an association between the scary sound and doing something wrong.
And a final note in kitten training is how to deal with the age old issue of kitten bites. Whenever you catch your kitten becoming unruly with your hands or feet give him a toy to replace your skin with. Any standard kitten toy will do such as a fur mouse or jingle bell ball.
Okay. You now know the essential elements of kitten training. Remember to let your kitten know how much you love him or her. Praise your pet for good behavior. Use positive reinforcement to create a strong bond with your cat for years to come. Your kitten and you, both, will be happier. Your pet will give you hours of enjoyment and will show you unconditional love.
About the Author
Bringing home a kitten is a great addition to any family. But don't forget these following items: a food dish, food, water bowl, and of course the litter box. When trying to correct cat problems, there are a few more things you should consider doing.
standby waiting for the time to hunt!
I'm the king and you are the servant..!!!
Funny.. Funny.. Funny..
There comes a time when parents decide to make their home a safer place for baby. Problem is that you have another baby, a cat. I find cat owners are very devoted to their 4 pawed friends.Ok heres the problem. You have a cat. Its no longer able to jump a baby gate. Either too old , to fat or too complacent. ( In most cases they can squeeze under even though they don't look like they could. I have a 18 pound cat that can. ) Now what am I going to do ? Unfortunately there is no good answer. If you set your gate high enough for your cat, your toddler can slip under it and get caught or worse. Maybe a hole in the gate. Nope that didn't work either. My kid gets his head stuck in it. Wait I found a company that has a patented gate with a small pet door in it. After reading about the gate I realized they were very specific .This is for pets only! So what options are there. Now you need to decide what are your priorities. Your child or your cat. This is the reality of it. There are no options other than to restrict the area your cat is in, or take a risk with your child. I once owned 28 cats at one time. I can sympothize I am definately a cat lover. I have tried to design a gate for cats. I am convinced a 4" round hole would work. Where as a 4" square hole wouldn't. So if I make a gate with a 4 inch round hole in it heres my new problem. It gives your little guy or girl something to stand on and get over the gate. So unfortunately I am in a situation of saying I still have no answer. Will continue to try and find a answer.
Mark W Saincome For further information visit my web site http://www.dmtoddlersafety.com or
About the Author
I have been a babyproofer for 15 years presently 2007 and have made it my mission to save little lives . Bringing professionalism into the baby proofing industry.
Sleeping or drunk!
an artefact's?
The act of offering. Christmas gifts is always enhanced if you take some trouble in matching the gift with the recipient.
Sometimes, though, it is not as easy as it may seem, especially if the gift is for someone you have not seen very often throughout the year; or someone whose tastes you do not know that well.
If that person is a cat lover, though, it is something you are probably aware of however often you may see them. There is every chance that choosing a cat related gift of some sort will be well received.
Cat gifts fall into two categories. The first is something the cat itself (or themselves) can use; the second is something for the cat owner which is adorned by something feline.
Cat Lover Gifts For The Cat Itself
The range of possible cat lover gifts that a cat can actually make use of is quite small, but nevertheless offer an opportunity to buy something both the cat and the owner appreciate. The cat, of course, would probably be happiest with a brown paper bag; at least, I have had cats in the past who would spend much of an evening hiding in such a cheap and cheerful toy.
Assuming brown paper bags are out, what other cat lover gifts can you consider? It will most likely be something the cat can utilise in the home, as when they are off on their travels they like, and need, to be unfettered. An exception, though, is a cat collar. If you know the cat does not have a collar already, then that is an option, but bear in mind that some cats just hate collars and find them uncomfortable. Also, if they are not a good fit, they can become a hazard.
It is probably better to opt for a gift that belongs and stays in the home. For example:
Cat Blanket
There are some very warm, comfortable and attractive cat blankets around, and they make nice cat gifts. We all know how cats love to curl up in front of a fire in the winter; with a warm fleecy blanket to lie on, they will be in heaven. You can add a personal touch to this gift by having the blanket personalized with the cat's name. The cat won't care about that, but it's a nice touch for the owner's pleasure.
Cat Basket
Something a little bit more elaborate as a cat lover gift is a cat basket. I am referring here to a basket to sleep in, not something that is simply for carrying a cat to the vet. Remember, though, that cat's can be very choosy. It would not be surprising if the cat turned it's nose up at a new basket, at least initially. If you spend a lot of money on the basket, then that can be a disappointment, even if the cat owner is very appreciative.
Cats, though, have moods. One day it may take to the basket, especially if you tell it not to get inside!
There are, of course, other things you can buy for the cat itself. Small toys, food treats (fresh salmon may go down quite well), but what is it in the home that cats enjoy most? Sleeping. That means that a cat blanket or type of bed could be a popular gift. We all know, however, that the cat will be the one to decide if they want to use it or not. Never mind, the cat lover recipient will appreciate your gift.
Gifts For The Cat Owner
The choice of gifts that are cat related, and may be suitable for the cat owner, is much greater than for the cat itself. If you think about it, just about anything in the home could have a cat theme to it. Many of these gift items have cat pictures on, or are cat shaped.
Some examples of what you can buy include plates, place mats, coasters, clocks, fridge magnets, ironing board covers, doorstops and a whole lot more. Many of these types of items will be appreciated by a cat lover as a gift.
One good idea is to find a gift that you can personalise, with a picture of the owner's cat. If you have a digital camera, it should not be difficult to get a picture of the cat while visiting before Christmas, without arousing too much suspicion of what you are up to. Once you have the picture, then you can probable find somewhere to add that picture to mugs, place mats and other household items, and end up with the perfect Christmas gift for the cat owner.
Really, the choice of cat lover gifts is wide. That is not surprising, given the huge popularity of cats. So, enjoy looking, and try to find something just that little bit different for your cat lover friends and relatives.
This cat lover gift article was written by Roy Thomsitt, owner author of the Gifts For Xmas website.
Relax, get in the Christmas spirit, and read Roy's new Christmas Story, for adults or children, about Santa Claus and a little girl living on the edge of a tropical rainforest.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Roy_Thomsitt
Close up face...
What a great cute cat. I like those green eyes!
Can you mention the real one?
Aaaaa....
March 6, 2006, Atlanta, Ga.- Piedmont Pets, an Atlanta-based designer and manufacturer of leather collars and leashes for pets, today announced the launch of a new line of cat toys. When asked about their new line of toys, Dyan Núñez, company co-founder, elaborates, "Being a cat lover, it wasn't enough for me to just cater to dogs. It has been our intention since we started this company to encompass products for more than one kind of pet, and we are constantly researching and brainstorming about toys and products that we can introduce to the market. These fun toys are a result of that research." The aim of the company has been to create toys that are not only entertaining for cats to play with, but also esthetically beautiful. Using a combination of textures and materials that entice cats, such as feathers, mylar, bells, soft cotton, and catnip, Piedmont Pets has come up with a line that is eye catching and hard to resist.
The Piedmont Pets cat wands are fun teasers for cats. Long flexible poles with satin cords and various toy extensions become a favorite sport for playful cats, who love swatting and catching things. They come in four different models--Feather Wand, Pompom Wand, Carnival Wand, and Kitty Tail Wand. Piedmont Pets took great care to design color and texture into every detail, using different colored poles, colorful satin cords, incorporating jingle bells, and using varied materials for their toy extensions. Some of their other toys include: Glitter Pompoms in a variety of sizes and colors, Feather Fans, Catnip Crinkle Dynamite, and Catnip Cigars. Piedmont Pets also carries its own Certified Organic Catnip, in both leaf and flower, and fine grind.
Piedmont Pets LLC is a manufacturer of pet products operating out of Atlanta Ga. since 2004. They sell primarily wholesale to stores nationwide, but also on-line at its retail store www.piedmontpets.com.
For everything fun and functional for felines, visit PiedmontPets.com
About the Author
Piedmont Pets provides crafted leather collars and leashes, dog show bows, organic catnip, cat toys, pet treats and gourmet bones
Read more
The Piedmont Pets cat wands are fun teasers for cats. Long flexible poles with satin cords and various toy extensions become a favorite sport for playful cats, who love swatting and catching things. They come in four different models--Feather Wand, Pompom Wand, Carnival Wand, and Kitty Tail Wand. Piedmont Pets took great care to design color and texture into every detail, using different colored poles, colorful satin cords, incorporating jingle bells, and using varied materials for their toy extensions. Some of their other toys include: Glitter Pompoms in a variety of sizes and colors, Feather Fans, Catnip Crinkle Dynamite, and Catnip Cigars. Piedmont Pets also carries its own Certified Organic Catnip, in both leaf and flower, and fine grind.
Piedmont Pets LLC is a manufacturer of pet products operating out of Atlanta Ga. since 2004. They sell primarily wholesale to stores nationwide, but also on-line at its retail store www.piedmontpets.com.
For everything fun and functional for felines, visit PiedmontPets.com
About the Author
Piedmont Pets provides crafted leather collars and leashes, dog show bows, organic catnip, cat toys, pet treats and gourmet bones
Cat Litter is a necessity for many cat owners and the average cat owner will spend more than one thousand dollars every year on purchasing cat litter. Cat litter (often called kitty litter) is one of the materials used in litter boxes to absorb moisture from cats.
However, what is unknown to many cat owners, their cat litter could have damaging health effects for their pet. For example, many cat litter manufactures use clay to make their litter which traps smells but can create mess around the house.
There are many types of cat litter. The main types are clay, sand, clumping litter, crystal and wheat. Each one has it's own distinct advantages and disadvantages. Some of these are:
Sand or dirt: cheap, easy and quickly available. BUT it does not absorb oder and it tracks easily.
Basic Cat litter: Inexpensive. Less likely to be tracked through the house. BUT lots of cleaning and the box can smell. Dusty.
Clumping litter: Easy to clean, less oder. BUT cats can track it through the house easier. Dusty. Maybe harmful if ingested.
Crystal litter: Easy to clean. Low smell. No dust BUT maybe harmful if swallowed. Crystals roll everywhere. Cats may not like walking on it.
Wheat Litter: Much like clumping litter but more environmentally sound and safer if ingested. BUT there is more cat oder. Tends to expensive. Dusty.
When choosing cat litter, it is important to purchase one made from safe materials that cannot be ingested by cats and also have the ability to neutralize bad odours quickly. The cat litter should also clump for easy disposal.
To Find Out More About The Perfect Litter for Cats, Please Visit Free Cat Litter
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darren_Davis
Read more
However, what is unknown to many cat owners, their cat litter could have damaging health effects for their pet. For example, many cat litter manufactures use clay to make their litter which traps smells but can create mess around the house.
There are many types of cat litter. The main types are clay, sand, clumping litter, crystal and wheat. Each one has it's own distinct advantages and disadvantages. Some of these are:
Sand or dirt: cheap, easy and quickly available. BUT it does not absorb oder and it tracks easily.
Basic Cat litter: Inexpensive. Less likely to be tracked through the house. BUT lots of cleaning and the box can smell. Dusty.
Clumping litter: Easy to clean, less oder. BUT cats can track it through the house easier. Dusty. Maybe harmful if ingested.
Crystal litter: Easy to clean. Low smell. No dust BUT maybe harmful if swallowed. Crystals roll everywhere. Cats may not like walking on it.
Wheat Litter: Much like clumping litter but more environmentally sound and safer if ingested. BUT there is more cat oder. Tends to expensive. Dusty.
When choosing cat litter, it is important to purchase one made from safe materials that cannot be ingested by cats and also have the ability to neutralize bad odours quickly. The cat litter should also clump for easy disposal.
To Find Out More About The Perfect Litter for Cats, Please Visit Free Cat Litter
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darren_Davis
I don't have any smile ;0
What is PZI?
PZI (Protamine Zinc Insulin) is insulin combined with zinc and protamine (a protein extracted from salmon testes), which slow the release of the insulin into bodily tissue. Historically, the insulin component of PZI, as well as all other insulin produced for human medical use, was derived from animals, either cows or pigs. Animal-derived insulin is a by-product of slaughtering food animals. The pancreas is ground and transformed into a crystalline powder, which is sold to insulin manufacturers. No animals from countries where BSE (mad-cow disease) exists may be used.
Mass-produced, genetically engineered human insulin has generally replaced animal-derived insulin in use by human diabetics. In the mid-90's in the US, beef-source insulin (including PZI formulations) were phased out by the major producers such as Lilly Pharmaceuticals. Since beef-pork PZI was the insulin most familiar and most recommended for diabetic cats, many were left scrambling (and some were, sadly, unable) to find an effective alternative.
No longer able to obtain beef-pork PZI for their veterinary clients, compounding pharmacists developed a formula substituting human insulin (Lilly markets it as "Humulin") for animal-derived insulin, along with protamine-zinc. Although completely untested in any scientific way, this seems to have been a satisfactory substitute for many feline PZI customers.
PZI sold today by most compounding pharmacies in the US is almost certainly a compound of human “Regular” insulin. Until recently, the only exceptions to this were pharmacists who had hoarded a dwindling supply of one of the discontinued animal-derived insulin. However, in 2000, BCP Veterinary Pharmacy of Houston, Texas succeeded in chemically reproducing Lilly's Iletin I 100% beef PZI (discontinued in 1990), making them the only US source for an all-beef PZI. As for US manufacturers, IDEXX Pharmaceuticals who produces PZI vet doesn't actually have FDA approval for the manufacture. Kellie & chu of the FDMB, contacted the FDA's Center for Veterinary Medicine about this in February 2007. The FDA CVM states that PZI Vet is not FDA approved but is allowed to be marketed under regulatory discretion. PZI Vet is manufactured in a FDA-inspected plant, however. PZI Vet is the first insulin produced for, and tested exclusively for cats rather than humans. Idexx makes the claim that it is "the only insulin scientifically proven to be effective in diabetic cats." That claim is now disputable as more insulin types are now being manufactured and then tested in diabetic cats. You can find more information at the Idexx web site.
Why use PZI?
For a few cats, human insulin does not successfully replace the cat's own insulin, so for them, the source of the insulin is very important to regulation. Bovine (beef) insulin is most similar in molecular structure to feline insulin, and it is thought for this reason, to be most effective for these cats.
In addition, with 2 injections per day, the many cats who do respond to the human forms of insulin, experience better control, consistency and flatter curves with PZI. In some cases, PZI offers longer durations than human insulin (up to 24 hours) allowing one injection per day. Although there is little scientific evidence either way, experientially, among FelineDiabetes.com contributors, there is a strong preference for manufactured beef (or beef-pork) PZI, over the compounded human insulin PZI, which is suspected of sloppy or inconsistent small-scale production, because it deviates from the historical formula for PZI, and has less of a track record.
In the UK, CP Pharmaceuticals has been producing bovine insulin (for humans) for 25 years, and Schering-Plough has recently started to market a veterinary PZI-beef product.
Three forms of PZI sold in the US:
(1) Beef-Pork PZI from IDEXX Pharmaceuticals
Beef-pork insulin from IDEXX Pharmaceuticals (formerly Blue Ridge Pharmaceuticals) is available for sale to veterinarians.
Vets will likely mark up the cost to you, possibly by a lot. Before ordering, ask what your vet will charge you.
IDEXX PZI has a shelf life (unopened) of 3 years from the date of manufacture.
(2) PZI available from US pharmacies
The "PZI" insulin available by prescription from US compounding pharmacists generally consists of "Regular" human insulin (rapid-onset, short-duration) which has been compounded with protamine-zinc to extend its duration. A small number of pharmacists mix insulin from OTHER sources with PZ. They may have sources of discontinued beef-pork from Lilly, Europe, or use pure pork (Lilly Iletin II). You have to ask them, to know for sure what you're getting. Pharmacists combine the insulin with PZ in onsite laboratories, under what should be stringent conditions. Quality controls and checks mandated by the FDA for manufacturers don't apply to compounders. Relatively small batches of insulin may be compounded to order, or monthly, depending on demand. Without strict adherence to procedure, there is a risk of variability between batches and contamination that is greater than when getting insulin from a manufacturer. This is reflected in shorter shelf life recommendations. Some pharmacists, especially those who compound large volumes of PZI, take voluntary measures to ensure a clean, consistent product, such as outside analysis, and incubation to test sterility.
BCP Veterinary Pharmacy is unique as their pharmacists compound PZI with insulin crystals like a manufacturer, although they work in much smaller quantities and under less stringent conditions and specifications. They have chemically reproduced a formula for 100% beef PZI, which Lilly once sold under the name Iletin I. A prescription is required - but unlike IDEXX - there is no minimum order, and they will ship to you directly allowing one to avoid vet markups. As with any compounded formulation, variability between batches may be slightly greater than the stricter tolerances required of manufactured insulin. However, ongoing analysis is conducted by BCP Veterinary Pharmacy to ensure consistent quality control.
Shelf life: Depending on which pharmacist you ask, shelf-life for compounded insulin ranges between 30 and 90 days, which can be less than a manufactured product. They may compensate for this by offering smaller quantities (but they may not charge less). If you test bg's at home, you can judge for yourself if the efficacy is fading. Using sterile techniques and keeping insulin in the refrigerator will prevent or delay bacterial contamination. BCP's shelf life for its regular beef PZI is six months.
(3) 100% Beef PZI from the UK
There are currently 2 manufacturers of 100% beef PZI insulin in the United Kingdom (UK).
CP Pharmaceuticals' Hypurin® is licensed for human use and is therefore sold through pharmacies in the UK (one is listed below), and elsewhere in Europe. The 100% bovine, U100 insulin comes from US cows, and is offered in 4 formulations: PZI, Lente, Isophane (NPH) and Neutral (Regular). Pork insulin (used by some cats), which is structurally identical to dog insulin, and should be similar to human insulin when used in cats, is also offered (in Neutral, Isophane, and 30/70). A prescription is not required when shipping outside the UK. Shelf life once opened is 90 days (refrigerated).
Schering-Plough's Insuvet® is 100%beef, U100, and is approved only for veterinary use in the UK and is available only through vets. It is pure beef, U100 strength, comes in PZI, Lente, and Regular formulations, and has an official shelf life opened and refrigerated, of 28 days.
Import regulations:Good News for US insulin importers. As of November 2006, there is no longer a UDSA permit fee. For those in the US importing foreign insulins (especially beef and pork insulins from CP Pharma) the USDA permit is good for 5 years and the $ 94 permit fee has now been waived for personal importation. Import permits are granted on a case-by-case basis. As soon as USDA updates its website regarding the waiving of the fee, we will provide a link to this new information.
What do the strength numbers (U40, U100) mean?
The vials of what we call insulin actually contain a minute amount of crystalline insulin, which is suspended in a fluid (called diluent) that is mostly water. Pure, crystalline insulin is measured by weight, in international units (iU).
When combined with the other ingredients, insulin strength is expressed as U100, U50, and U40, meaning that there are 100, 50 or 40 international units of insulin per milliliter (ml) of diluent (the fluid). A ml of U40 contains 40iU of crystalline insulin, and therefore a 10ml vial will contain 400iU. The same vial of U100 strength, contains 1000iU of insulin, or 2.5 times as much. Think of U100 as being more concentrated than U40.
IDEXX PZI comes in U40 strength, CP Pharmaceuticals Hypurin® comes in U100 strength, and the compounded human "Regular" PZI's come in a variety of strengths. If your cat takes a very small dose, the more dilute insulin strengths can be easier to measure.
Syringes are designed to be used with a specific strength of insulin. U40 syringes contain a full cc (equivalent to 1ml) and have 40 unit marks. Measuring U40 insulin to the one unit mark in a U40 syringe, will contain 1iU of insulin. U100 syringes are most popular in a 3/10cc size, with 30 marks (100 marks per full cc). Measuring U100 insulin to one mark in a U100 syringe will also contain 1iU of insulin. Note that although the two syringes hold the same amount of active insulin, there's more (2.5 times as much) fluid in the U40 syringe -- it's more dilute.
UIDEXX PZI comes with a supply of U40 syringes. Some people like the U40 syringes for their more widely spaced unit markings, making small increments easier to see. Others feel there are advantages to using U100 (3/10cc capacity) syringes with U40 insulin. One unit of U40 insulin (1/40th of a ml) measures 2.5 units in a U100 syringe, so a very small dose of U40 can be more accurately measured in a U100 syringe, although it takes an eagle eye. U100 needles come in finer gauges (29 or 30 gauge, versus 27g with U40) and come in shorter and longer lengths, versus 1/2" for IDEXX U40. The rubber seal on IDEXX U40 is quite stiff and may bend a few syringes when using finer gauges.
WARNING: IDEXX specifically advises against doing a direct conversion between doses when changing insulin types. They recommend a starting dose of .1-.3 units per pound (or, .22-.66 units per kilogram) regardless of the old dose. For a 10-pound cat, the starting dose range would be 1-3 units (in a U40 syringe), or, multiplying by 2.5, 2.5 - 7.5 units of U40 insulin in a U100 syringe.
For help in converting between U40 and U100, please see our insulin conversion chart.
What about shelf life?
The factors affecting shelf life of a vial that has been opened are, exposure to light, accumulating contaminants from re-used syringes (or even new syringes), mixing with incompatible insulins, lack of refrigeration (loss of sterility), and at some point, chemical instability. Home testing will enable you to determine for yourself whether the insulin is maintaining its effectiveness. You will not be able to tell whether it is still reasonably sterile, or is teeming with bacteria. You should not use insulin that suddenly looks different. PZI is clear (not cloudy) with white sediment (no clumps), that when mixed gently, looks like watery milk. Compounded insulins, as well as user-diluted or mixed insulins have an opened-life of 30 to 90 days.
Which PZI should I get?
It is impossible to predict which insulin will work best for your particular cat. Two diabetic cats in the same household (i.e. same diet and schedule) can respond differently to the same insulin.
If your cat doesn't respond even to large doses of human insulin, meaning that blood sugar consistently stays very high despite doses larger than 1 unit per pound, and assuming there is not another serious problem causing the high blood sugars, it makes good sense to try the bovine PZI.
If your cat responds to human insulin, but bg's (blood glucose values) cannot be maintained within the ideal range of 100-300mg/dl (5.5 - 16.7 mm/ol), by all means consider PZI (either animal or human), but first, review the "lifestyle" suggestions below.
Lifestyles of the diabetic cat
Most people with a newly diagnosed diabetic cat start treatment with human insulins, injected twice a day, since they are widely available, relatively inexpensive, and will work well for many cats. If you're inexperienced (and/or have an inexperienced vet), and the insulin you're using "doesn't work", realize that the insulin is only about half the treatment. There's a great deal that you can learn to do to help the insulin (whatever it is) work longer and better. Even if you've been around the block a few times, if you’re having difficulties, these points are worth reviewing.
Many people turn to PZI because their cat exhibits wide swings in blood sugar levels, from 400+ (or more) to sub-100's, but with extremely variable (unpredictable) readings at all points on the curve. Very often, this is due to giving too much insulin without sufficient testing to see the whole cycle. If this is the case, cutting the dose in half (or more) for several days and more frequent testing will result in a flatter curve AND lower average numbers. Excessive doses of insulin can mean steep roller coaster curves, with peak readings (the insulin's strength is at its peak, and blood sugar is lowest) that vary from being dangerously low, to being higher than desirable. Large doses affect the insulin's duration as well, and may cause excessive overlapping of the next dose (a sign of this is a dinner bg reading much lower than the breakfast reading). If doses are overlapping, changing doses "on the fly" is inadvisable because the effect of the overlap on the next dose will always vary. It is most important where overlap is suspected to find a minimal dose that can be given consistently.
Insulin acts to push blood sugar levels down, diet is a major factor in what pushes blood sugars up. We try to balance the effect of the insulin with the appropriate diet and feeding schedule to obtain a flat curve in the target range (300 to 100mg/dl). With PZI, as with any long-acting insulin, the role of diet cannot be overstated. It is almost impossible to manage a large post-meal surge in blood sugar with a long acting insulin such as PZI (or Ultralente), due to its slow onset, and weak action. Trying to do so usually means excessively large doses, steep curves and widely variable readings at shot time. You can help a weak-acting insulin to control blood sugar by making dietary changes, and you'll get flatter curves and lower numbers overall. To avoid post-meal surges, make sure the diet (even if recommended by your old-school vet) is low in CARBOHYDRATES. Dry cereals (especially diets created for weight-loss) always have significantly more carbohydrates than wet food. When switched to an improved, carbohydrate-restricted, high protein diet, some cats produce enough insulin themselves and no longer need injected insulin. Cats are carnivores, and require no more than 6% carbohydrate (cereals contain as much as 30 or 40%). Purina has done case studies (soon to be made public, 1-800-222-8387 for more info) in which they observed that 93% of cats lower or eliminate insulin requirements when fed their new canned food called Purina CNM DM-Formula (prescription only). It is high in fiber and protein, low in carbohydrates. If you're unable to halt the post-meal surges without large doses, even with a corrected diet, consider trying a combination of a long-acting insulin at 12-hour intervals to provide "fasting" coverage, augmented at mealtimes with a fast-acting, short-duration insulin (use 2 syringes unless you know they're compatible. Usually only a fractional unit of the fast-acting insulin is needed, so you can dilute it.) Caution: substantially reducing carbohydrates in the diet is a POTENT factor in reducing blood sugars and altering bg curves, and it should not be done without also reducing insulin, and careful monitoring.
To get consistent curves, the diet must also be consistent. Caloric intake and schedule should be the same, day to day. If replacing dry food with canned food or "people food", be careful to replace the calories as well; dry foods have 3 or 4 times the calories, by weight. More calories require more insulin, fewer calories require less. Other sources of inconsistency: free feeding in a multi-cat household is not desirable. Canned foods may vary quite a bit in carbs and calories, depending on the "flavor". Detailed nutritional information can be obtained by calling the phone number listed on the can or bag. Be sure to compare equal caloric amounts.
Increasing soluble fiber (metamucil, psillium husks) is thought to slow and even out the process of digestion which may flatten out the insulin's peak (the lowest point on the bg curve) as well as moderate the post-meal rise in blood sugar. Be sure to monitor carefully when adding fiber.
Just enough duration from the previous dose to overlap the new dose while it's gaining strength is desirable. Too much overlap will (sooner or later) drop blood sugar too much. You’re aiming for 12-hour blood sugar values within around 10% of each other. Remember that even before you’ve achieved regulation, you want a gentle curve that gradually gets lower overall as dosage increases. A steep drop from a very high reading, to a good peak cannot achieve regulation in the end. 12-hour readings should be close enough to each other that dosage can remain consistent. If the 12-hour reading is so much lower that you cannot repeat the same dose consistently (assuming that the peak will also be a lot lower), you will have a roller-coaster situation where the affect of duration will always vary. The difference between doses that are "too much" and "too little" can be minute -- as little as a quarter-unit. If your cat is very sensitive to small increments, consider the more dilute PZI from IDEXX (U40 strength) and use a U100 syringe if necessary (see "Strength" discussion below). Unlike other insulin, diluting PZI yourself, is not recommended.
Make sure that you're keeping a consistent injection schedule, so that blood sugars don't get out of control due to an injection given too late, and don't plummet because the injection is given too early. What is "too late" and "too early" will depend on the insulin's duration for your cat.
For various reasons, insulin may be absorbed erratically, and this may affect large doses more than small ones. Avoid using the scruff of the neck for injections, as there is insufficient blood supply to that area. Rotate the injection site to avoid building scar tissue and consequent absorption problems.
Certain conditions render bodily tissue insensitive to insulin, this is called insulin resistance. Obesity is a major cause of insulin resistance. One of the most effective (and most challenging) ways for a fat cat to lower bg levels, and possibly eliminate the need for injected insulin altogether, is by losing excess weight. Exercise, smaller portions of a carb-restricted diet, reduced fat, or restriction or elimination of treats are ways to accomplish weight loss. Note that dry foods sold as low calorie, high fiber, for “Seniors” or weight-loss may be higher in carbohydrates, lower in protein than normal dry food (which is already higher in carbs than wet food), and should not be given to diabetics. Something is wrong if your cat appears to be "starving" -- he or she may have very high, or very low blood sugar at that time -- it is not necessary or desirable to starve your cat. High blood sugar alone is a major cause of insulin resistance -- you will notice that the same dose will have more impact when given at lower bg levels than at high levels.
Other causes for consistently high blood glucose values are, pregnancy, stress, certain medications (corticosteroids), infection (diabetics are especially susceptible to urinary infections) and disease (renal, hyperthyroidism, liver disease and cancer to name a few). These possibilities should be ruled out.
How Much Insulin is Too Much?
The Cornell University Feline Health Center has addressed the topic of high insulin doses in cats. Excessively high insulin doses are those greater than one to two units of insulin per pound per day. Felines who use more insulin than this should be evaluated more intensively. Other diseases may be underlying or complicating the diabetes mellitus and as a result, necessitate high insulin dosages. Problems with insulin injection, poor absorption or too rapid metabolism of insulin, or even insulin overdose are potential causes of an apparently excessive insulin requirement.
Cat Litter is a necessity for many cat owners and the average cat owner will spend more than one thousand dollars every year on purchasing cat litter. Cat litter (often called kitty litter) is one of the materials used in litter boxes to absorb moisture from cats.
However, what is unknown to many cat owners, their cat litter could have damaging health effects for their pet. For example, many cat litter manufactures use clay to make their litter which traps smells but can create mess around the house.
There are many types of cat litter. The main types are clay, sand, clumping litter, crystal and wheat. Each one has it's own distinct advantages and disadvantages. Some of these are:
Sand or dirt: cheap, easy and quickly available. BUT it does not absorb oder and it tracks easily.
Basic Cat litter: Inexpensive. Less likely to be tracked through the house. BUT lots of cleaning and the box can smell. Dusty.
Clumping litter: Easy to clean, less oder. BUT cats can track it through the house easier. Dusty. Maybe harmful if ingested.
Crystal litter: Easy to clean. Low smell. No dust BUT maybe harmful if swallowed. Crystals roll everywhere. Cats may not like walking on it.
Wheat Litter: Much like clumping litter but more environmentally sound and safer if ingested. BUT there is more cat oder. Tends to expensive. Dusty.
When choosing cat litter, it is important to purchase one made from safe materials that cannot be ingested by cats and also have the ability to neutralize bad odours quickly. The cat litter should also clump for easy disposal.
To Find Out More About The Perfect Litter for Cats, Please Visit Free Cat Litter
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darren_Davis
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However, what is unknown to many cat owners, their cat litter could have damaging health effects for their pet. For example, many cat litter manufactures use clay to make their litter which traps smells but can create mess around the house.
There are many types of cat litter. The main types are clay, sand, clumping litter, crystal and wheat. Each one has it's own distinct advantages and disadvantages. Some of these are:
Sand or dirt: cheap, easy and quickly available. BUT it does not absorb oder and it tracks easily.
Basic Cat litter: Inexpensive. Less likely to be tracked through the house. BUT lots of cleaning and the box can smell. Dusty.
Clumping litter: Easy to clean, less oder. BUT cats can track it through the house easier. Dusty. Maybe harmful if ingested.
Crystal litter: Easy to clean. Low smell. No dust BUT maybe harmful if swallowed. Crystals roll everywhere. Cats may not like walking on it.
Wheat Litter: Much like clumping litter but more environmentally sound and safer if ingested. BUT there is more cat oder. Tends to expensive. Dusty.
When choosing cat litter, it is important to purchase one made from safe materials that cannot be ingested by cats and also have the ability to neutralize bad odours quickly. The cat litter should also clump for easy disposal.
To Find Out More About The Perfect Litter for Cats, Please Visit Free Cat Litter
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darren_Davis
Cats are extremely sociable animals even though cats tend to give an image of solidarity and aloofness. Cats that are well trained can form successful relationships with you and your family including other family pets. A well trained cat also caused fewer social problems and minimized nuisances and embarrassments for you down the road.
While instilling discipline into your cat is important, tough punishment must be avoided. Instead use positive actions and avoid negative ones when training your cat. Negative actions such as hitting or yelling are not generally acknowledged by them. Cats are known to associate these adverse actions with you rather than with their bad behavior. And as a result, the relationship between you and your cat will be strained.
To maintain and forge a loving and warm relationship with your wonderful cat, you can use the following tips to help you solve your cat’s behavior problems.
Train them young
When your cat is still young, he is more open and responsive to training. Bad behaviors have not yet been formed and not given a chance to develop. The older he gets, the harder it will be to train your cat.
Give them regular love and attention
Do not use harsh or bitter tones to reprimand your cat; instead a gentle hug, caress, or a whisper has a longer lasting effect. Your relationship with your cat should be fun, rewarding, playful and interesting. Sometimes this change alone will solve your cat behavior problem. Cats when they are bored are known to become overly active and destructive. By playing with your cat daily and giving him regular relaxing massages can help to calm your kitty down. Cats normally stop using their litterbox when they feel neglected. With regular sessions of attention and play time, even litterbox problems can vanish almost overnight.
Reward them for good behavior
Cats are creatures that love rewards and fear punishment. Cats will only do things that they find pleasurable and rewarding to do. Reward your cat for good behavior. Give rewards such as treats, sweet talking or gently stroking the cat to let him know that you approve of the way he is acting.
Let them know what is acceptable and what is not
Educate your cat on what is correct and acceptable behavior and what is not. Reward him for good behavior. Cats have very short attention span and they tend to forget what they did a minute ago, much less hours ago. In order for you to discipline and make your cat learn, you must catch your cat in the act. As cats hate water, one effective way of making your cat learn is through the use of a spray bottle or squirt gun to startle your cat when you catch him misbehaving. Another method is the use of a whistle to create a loud noise to startle your cat as cats loathe loud noises.
Make your training sessions short but frequent
Training sessions should be brief but frequent. Cats are known to have short attention and interest spans; so it is important to make your sessions brief to be more effective.
Systematic training will do the trick
Owners must design their training programs. The program depends on their cats' attitude. Things to be included in the program are the specific tasks that the owners want their cats to do and the corresponding rewards. This method will deliver the results that you want only if you stick to the program that you did. Consistency is a key factor at this stage.
Albert recently developed a eCourse for looking after your cat's mental and physical needs. If you are interest in learning more about this free eCourse and taking good care of your cat, please go to http://catcentral.justastore.com or you can send an email to catcentral@getresponse.com to request for your free eCourse.
Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com
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While instilling discipline into your cat is important, tough punishment must be avoided. Instead use positive actions and avoid negative ones when training your cat. Negative actions such as hitting or yelling are not generally acknowledged by them. Cats are known to associate these adverse actions with you rather than with their bad behavior. And as a result, the relationship between you and your cat will be strained.
To maintain and forge a loving and warm relationship with your wonderful cat, you can use the following tips to help you solve your cat’s behavior problems.
Train them young
When your cat is still young, he is more open and responsive to training. Bad behaviors have not yet been formed and not given a chance to develop. The older he gets, the harder it will be to train your cat.
Give them regular love and attention
Do not use harsh or bitter tones to reprimand your cat; instead a gentle hug, caress, or a whisper has a longer lasting effect. Your relationship with your cat should be fun, rewarding, playful and interesting. Sometimes this change alone will solve your cat behavior problem. Cats when they are bored are known to become overly active and destructive. By playing with your cat daily and giving him regular relaxing massages can help to calm your kitty down. Cats normally stop using their litterbox when they feel neglected. With regular sessions of attention and play time, even litterbox problems can vanish almost overnight.
Reward them for good behavior
Cats are creatures that love rewards and fear punishment. Cats will only do things that they find pleasurable and rewarding to do. Reward your cat for good behavior. Give rewards such as treats, sweet talking or gently stroking the cat to let him know that you approve of the way he is acting.
Let them know what is acceptable and what is not
Educate your cat on what is correct and acceptable behavior and what is not. Reward him for good behavior. Cats have very short attention span and they tend to forget what they did a minute ago, much less hours ago. In order for you to discipline and make your cat learn, you must catch your cat in the act. As cats hate water, one effective way of making your cat learn is through the use of a spray bottle or squirt gun to startle your cat when you catch him misbehaving. Another method is the use of a whistle to create a loud noise to startle your cat as cats loathe loud noises.
Make your training sessions short but frequent
Training sessions should be brief but frequent. Cats are known to have short attention and interest spans; so it is important to make your sessions brief to be more effective.
Systematic training will do the trick
Owners must design their training programs. The program depends on their cats' attitude. Things to be included in the program are the specific tasks that the owners want their cats to do and the corresponding rewards. This method will deliver the results that you want only if you stick to the program that you did. Consistency is a key factor at this stage.
Albert recently developed a eCourse for looking after your cat's mental and physical needs. If you are interest in learning more about this free eCourse and taking good care of your cat, please go to http://catcentral.justastore.com or you can send an email to catcentral@getresponse.com to request for your free eCourse.
Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com
Home Blood Glucose Testing of the Diabetic Cat
If you have a diabetic cat, consider doing home blood glucose testing. After a few tests, the vast majority of cats won't mind this at all. Advantages of home testing include less stress to your cat, considerably decreased costs and time of monitoring compared to vet visits, closer control of your cat's blood glucose level by more frequent monitoring, and possible avoidance of deadly hypoglycemic episodes.
This technique and the results should be discussed with your vet before any changes in the amount of insulin you give your cat.
NOTE: There is some information on working with blood glucose (BG) curves in the "Diabetes for Beginners" section of this web site.
Links to glucometer testing videos and slide shows:
Veterinary Partner
Punkin's Movie
Home blood testing with Harry
Amanda's hometesting page
Ear Prick illustration
Test strip illustration
Jock's insulin pen and testing
Materials for home testing
* Glucometer
o If your instruction book confuses you, see if there is an 800 number to call so a company representative can guide you through the first-time setup and calibration.
* Test strips
* Lancets; a lancet pen probably came with your meter. You can use this pen or just hold the lancet for a "free hand" stick. Starting with the lancet pen is recommended.
* OPTIONAL:
o Warm washcloth or a rice-filled sock that has been heated in microwave for 15 seconds - CHECK THE TEMPERATURE ON YOUR WRIST
o Facial tissue or cotton ball to apply pressure to the puncture site after the test
o Small flashlight
Tips for Success
* Read your glucometer manual.
* Put all the materials on your right if you're right handed or on your left if you're left-handed.
* Begin by petting and stroking your cat, speaking in affectionate tones
* Do NOT clean the stick area with alcohol. If dirty, use water and then dry thoroughly.
* Use the cloth or sock to warm the ear or paw pad before pricking to increase blood flow and enlarge the capillaries and veins. Alternatively, gently massage the area with your fingertips.
* If you use the lancet manually (not in a pen), prick at a 45 degree angle.
* Praise your pet and consider giving a treat.
Method
* Assemble all your materials and wash your hands.
* Position your cat so both of you are comfortable.
* Locate a vein on your cat's ear by shining a flashlight behind it. The vein will look like a red string and should be near the edge of the ear. If you are using a paw pad, use the large pad.
Photo courtesty of Pawprints and TEN
* Use the cloth or sock to warm the ear or paw pad before pricking to increase blood flow and enlarge the capillaries and veins. Alternatively, gently massage the area with your fingertips.
* Position the lancet and do the prick.
* Touch the tip of the test strip to the top of the blood drop at a slight angle.
* If necessary apply slight pressure to the prick site for a few seconds to stop the bleeding.
* Wait for the glucometer to give the final reading. Most glucometers will warn you if there is insufficient blood on the test strip.
* Record the date, time, and glucose reading in a notebook. Your meter will store a lot of data, but you should always back up your data manually or, if available with your meter, download the data to your computer periodically.
Links and tips from others:
Testing for Feline Blood Glucose - the Movie!
Ear sticks: 5 contributions
Footpad sticks: 2 contributions
Ear Sticks
I. Contributed by Julie Paque
Supplies needed:
Blood glucose monitor that requires a small amount of blood. (I use the Precision Blood Glucose Monitor made by Medisense. It needs only 5 micro liters of blood, vs. up to 30 micro liters for other monitors. Their customer service at their 800 number is great, too.) These are available from your local pharmacy, and a rebate is also often available, bringing the price down considerably. The companies make their money with the test strips, not the meters.
Test strips for monitor (most come with a learning supply.) These run about $ 35-40 for a supply of 50 strips.
Microcapillaries, 75 mm long by 1 mm diameter. You can use heparinized or non-heparinized, it doesn't matter, so go for what you can find or is cheaper. Your vet may be able to help you get some, or a medical or chemistry supply store. Use one per test.
A bulb with a hole for the end of the microcapillary (optional, to blow the blood out of the capillary onto the test strip.)
Tissue or gauze pads
Outline of procedure:
You will use the lancet included in the blood glucose monitor kit to prick the ear of your cat. The microcapillary will pick up the blood drop from the ear and you will put it on the test strip.
Detailed steps:
Learn how to use the meter, testing on yourself.
Getting blood from the cat:
a. Look carefully around the edge of the ear, you'll see a vein running just inside the edge. You may need a flashlight to see the vein, shine the flashlight from under the ear and the vein is visible even on dark haired cats.
b. When learning it is best to test the cat when he's warm. Such as when he's been sitting in the sun, or curled up in a particularly warm spot. You'll notice a big difference in the temperature of the ears, and it is much easier to get blood from warm ears than from cold ones! Later on when you have the technique down you'll be able to do it even when they're cold, but make it easy on yourself by optimizing conditions for you and the cat.
c. Have a folded tissue or gauze pad, the lancet, and the capillary ready. Put the cat between your knees, facing away from you. Keep your feet together so he can't back out. Don't wash the ear with water or alcohol before you prick it, you'll never be able to collect the blood.
d. You're going to use the lancet to prick the ear near the vein, if you hit the vein you'll get plenty of blood, if you're near it you'll still be able to get enough. Put the tissue underneath the ear so you don't prick yourself and contaminate the blood sample. You may need to prick more than once initially to get enough blood, gentle massage around the site will also encourage the blood to come out. After you've done a series of tests in the same area it becomes slightly swollen and it is easier to get the blood on one prick.
e. Pick up the blood with the capillary. For the Precision monitor I need a little more than 5 mm of blood in the capillary in order to perform the test. It just so happens that the capillaries that I am using have a line at the 5 mm mark. Set the capillary with the blood aside and use the tissue to apply pressure to stop any bleeding on the cat's ear. Give him a big hug for cooperating and let him free.
f. Put the test strip in the monitor and wait for the ready signal. Put the blood on the strip. If you have a bulb for the end of the capillary cover the hole and squeeze to get the blood out of the capillary. If you don't have one you can blow through the opposite end. Record the results in the booklet.
If the results of any test seem unusual it is always a good idea to repeat the test. Don't ever make radical changes in what you're doing based on a single results. And it's always a good idea to keep your vet up to date on the results of your testing and work with him or her to determine any changes necessary to your cat's regimen.
II. Contributed by Darlene
I have a Glucometer Elite, and love it. All you need is a drop of blood the size of an "o" in newspaper print. No separate capillary tubes -- it's built right into the test strip. I do ear sticks when I test, which isn't often these days because Pooter is doing so well. Before he was regulated, I did my own curves and plotted them for the vet to look at rather than taking the cat in for a whole day, and spot-checked once in a while when he wasn't acting right.
The chemical reaction in the test strip is very sensitive to humidity and anything else that can get into that little slot, so you have to be both careful and quick. Once you put the test strip into the machine, you only have three minutes to get the sample, which may not be enough while you're still learning how to keep the cat from flicking his ear and sending the blood drop off into space.
Here's my sequence. First I open an alcohol swab and twirl the lancet in it a few times to clean it off, then I open the foil test strip packet and put the strip into the meter just far enough to sit there but not far enough to activate it. Then I use the swab to sterilize the closed end of the packet and a patch of table for the cleaned packet to rest on.
Then I snuggle the cat and massage his ear until its good and warm (bleeds easier then ... some people bring a lamp down close to warm up the ear). Then I stick him, and if he doesn't bleed right away I massage the ear from the base up towards the pinhole and that sometimes brings up a small drop, otherwise he gets stuck again. Now you have to be quick, because that tiny drop congeals fast.
I scoop the drop up onto the sterilized end of the foil packet and release the cat -- takes both hands to slip the open end of the packet back over the test strip to protect it from contamination while you push it the rest of the way into the meter (without losing the drop of blood on the other end). In a couple of seconds the meter says it's ready, and you just touch the droplet to the end of the test strip until it's sucked up and you hear the beep.
If your cat is more cooperative than Pooter, you'll find that in no time you can warm the cat's ear up first, then start the meter, do the stick, and take the sample right off the cat's ear. More often than not, the irritation of the poke and the blood sitting there will bring on twitches, so I had to find a way of getting the sample onto a sterile surface before he bled all over the kitchen.
Oh -- I was told not to use alcohol or anything to clean the cat's ear for this, since it just inhibits bleeding and might contaminate the sample. The bleeding stops in seconds, and he's had no infection or irritation despite the kazillion times I poked him in same spots. I do re-use the lancets, and clean them with alcohol before and after each use. I tried using the spring-loaded pen that jabs the lancet quickly, but the noise made him jump, so now I just hold the lancet itself. It's easier to aim right at the little vein if you can see the sharp tip and exactly where it's going, too.
The glucometer is a great idea, and Pooter wasn't even close to regulated until I curved him with it several times. You'll know exactly what's going on with his blood sugars at the exact time you need to know -- this means you can tell when his insulin peaks, how far down it's taking the BG and for how long, and adjust his feeding (quantity and quality) to perfectly cover the insulin. Urine testing never gives you this precision -- it only tells you that at some point over the last X hours, the BG did or didn't get high enough to cause glucose dumping (and if it did, you don't know when or for how long -- all you know is that the BG was high enough for dumping to occur, which is the same level at which organic damage is being done). The meter will pay for itself in reduced vet visits, too. The main benefit for Pooter is that with close monitoring, a lot of the damage done to his body by poorly controlled diabetes is reversing -- his legs are stronger, his kidneys are concentrating urine instead of washing out glucose, etc. etc.
The main benefit for me is is that I got my life back -- I can inject him, feed him, and take off for the day without worrying whether he died in agony while I was out. For several months I absolutely had to be there when the insulin peaked, because he had so many reactions, or over-feed him to make sure there wasn't one, so he got fatter and fatter and sicker and sicker. We're both much happier now!
Darlene
III. Contributed by Kathy
Procedure for Home Testing of Blood Glucose using a Glucometer Elite Meter and a Lancet Device: Ear Sticks or Paw Sticks
. The "Follow-up" section of this monograph has an excellent description of using a spreadsheet to track your cat's progress.
IV. Contributed by Donna B.
A nice comprehensive write-up of this caretaker's approach to glucose monitoring.
V. Contributed by Eileen Swords RN, BA, BSN
I recommend the Fast Take monitor & the Soft Touch automatic lancet. (I am an NICU RN with 20 years of experience).
It is a very good idea to do all glucose testing in a "procedure room" in the house (in our case, it's our spare bedroom & we now call it the "torture room"). The rationale for this is that the cat will be able to truly relax in the "safe" areas of the house. We use this technique in the hospital with our Peds patients so that they feel more relaxed in their hospital room. Our kitty gives us a very pained look when he is taken in "the room", but he is VERY HAPPY when he is ANYWHERE else. We have not done this with the Insulin injections because he really does not seem to mind them.
Footpad Sticks
I. Contributed by Jerry
I just wanted to add my endorsement of the Glucometer Elite brand for home glucose testing. I tried another (cheaper) brand but was not able to obtain a large enough drop of blood for a reliable test. Glucometer Elite requires about one-fifth as much blood, making sampling much less traumatic on cat and owner.
I don't use the lancing device supplied with the Elite. Rather, I use a standard pen-shaped lancing device. I use the head attachment intended in humans for thick, calloused skin - for a bit deeper puncture. Press this FIRMLY into the big pad on kitty's rear foot. My cat had not cried nor flinched with this method. Finally, transferring the tiny drop of blood to the strip is easy; the strip itself wicks the sample into a little chamber. There is no continued bleeding, by the way. ***layman's experience only - your results may vary*** - I offer this as an alternative to using the marginal ear vein.
Best of luck to all, Jerry
II. Contributed by Kathy
You may need to stick with the lancet manually or use a lancet device that gives deeper penetration (e.g., SoftClix with adjustable depth) and larger lancets to get enough blood. Otherwise it shows real promise as an alternate site to give the ears a break. Our cat doesn't even move, like she doesn't even feel the stick.
First wipe off the large pad on one of the paws with warm water and dry it. Press the lancet device FIRMLY against the pad and release the lancet. Then squeeze the pad to get a blood drop. Continue as described with ear sticks.
Can you believe it? They are twins!
What a funny fat cat!
I'm looking for a fresh canned fish...
You cannot bullying me!
Yes, your white skin so smooth and solid!
Came on... gimme a break!
Poor cat, has only the home of cans that are not intact health. Whats. My cat .. allow me to brought you go from here to eternal paradise ...
Don't take my picture.. please...
I know it is a fake bird! Don't fool me!
Humans and cats have been living together for many thousands of years. During that time, cats have gone from wild beasts, to gods (in ancient Egyptian times), to household pets, working cats have lived on farms and ships, but basic cat behavior has remained unchanged. This is because the desire to sleep and scratch and play during the daytime, and to prowl at night, is driven by natural instincts that have remained unchanged despite millennia of domestication.
The best way to learn about your cat's behavior is simple to watch it. Cats can be affectionate or aloof, courageous or fearful, playful or slothful, depending on their mood and the time of day. By watching you cat closely you'll learn a lot about cat behavior in general, and more specifically, about your cat's personality and its likes and dislikes.
Over time, you will surely start to see patterns in your cat's behavior. You will learn when your cat likes to be playful and when it likes to be quiet. You learn when your cat is active and when sleepy. And you'll discover what types of external stimuli illicit a response, and what responses they trigger.
This knowledge and understanding will help you and your cat get along better. Once you know what your cat likes and dislikes, you can avoid putting your cat in situations which make him unhappy, and you'll be able to better structure his environment for him. Furthermore, a better understanding your cat's behavior, means that you won't be expecting things from your cat which are unnatural to it, and those behaviors that your cat does demonstrate will not come as a surprise to you.
By S. Tanna. First published at http://www.guide2pets.com/p1_articles_cats_behavior.php
Discover more pet articles, info and shopping at http://www.guide2pets.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sunil_Tanna
Read more
The best way to learn about your cat's behavior is simple to watch it. Cats can be affectionate or aloof, courageous or fearful, playful or slothful, depending on their mood and the time of day. By watching you cat closely you'll learn a lot about cat behavior in general, and more specifically, about your cat's personality and its likes and dislikes.
Over time, you will surely start to see patterns in your cat's behavior. You will learn when your cat likes to be playful and when it likes to be quiet. You learn when your cat is active and when sleepy. And you'll discover what types of external stimuli illicit a response, and what responses they trigger.
This knowledge and understanding will help you and your cat get along better. Once you know what your cat likes and dislikes, you can avoid putting your cat in situations which make him unhappy, and you'll be able to better structure his environment for him. Furthermore, a better understanding your cat's behavior, means that you won't be expecting things from your cat which are unnatural to it, and those behaviors that your cat does demonstrate will not come as a surprise to you.
By S. Tanna. First published at http://www.guide2pets.com/p1_articles_cats_behavior.php
Discover more pet articles, info and shopping at http://www.guide2pets.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sunil_Tanna
Out from the jungle...
Let's talk!
Cats are extremely sociable animals even though cats tend to give an image of solidarity and aloofness. Cats that are well trained can form successful relationships with you and your family including other family pets. A well trained cat also caused fewer social problems and minimized nuisances and embarrassments for you down the road.
While instilling discipline into your cat is important, tough punishment must be avoided. Instead use positive actions and avoid negative ones when training your cat. Negative actions such as hitting or yelling are not generally acknowledged by them. Cats are known to associate these adverse actions with you rather than with their bad behavior. And as a result, the relationship between you and your cat will be strained.
To maintain and forge a loving and warm relationship with your wonderful cat, you can use the following tips to help you solve your cat’s behavior problems.
Train them young
When your cat is still young, he is more open and responsive to training. Bad behaviors have not yet been formed and not given a chance to develop. The older he gets, the harder it will be to train your cat.
Give them regular love and attention
Do not use harsh or bitter tones to reprimand your cat; instead a gentle hug, caress, or a whisper has a longer lasting effect. Your relationship with your cat should be fun, rewarding, playful and interesting. Sometimes this change alone will solve your cat behavior problem. Cats when they are bored are known to become overly active and destructive. By playing with your cat daily and giving him regular relaxing massages can help to calm your kitty down. Cats normally stop using their litterbox when they feel neglected. With regular sessions of attention and play time, even litterbox problems can vanish almost overnight.
Reward them for good behavior
Cats are creatures that love rewards and fear punishment. Cats will only do things that they find pleasurable and rewarding to do. Reward your cat for good behavior. Give rewards such as treats, sweet talking or gently stroking the cat to let him know that you approve of the way he is acting.
Let them know what is acceptable and what is not
Educate your cat on what is correct and acceptable behavior and what is not. Reward him for good behavior. Cats have very short attention span and they tend to forget what they did a minute ago, much less hours ago. In order for you to discipline and make your cat learn, you must catch your cat in the act. As cats hate water, one effective way of making your cat learn is through the use of a spray bottle or squirt gun to startle your cat when you catch him misbehaving. Another method is the use of a whistle to create a loud noise to startle your cat as cats loathe loud noises.
Make your training sessions short but frequent
Training sessions should be brief but frequent. Cats are known to have short attention and interest spans; so it is important to make your sessions brief to be more effective.
Systematic training will do the trick
Owners must design their training programs. The program depends on their cats' attitude. Things to be included in the program are the specific tasks that the owners want their cats to do and the corresponding rewards. This method will deliver the results that you want only if you stick to the program that you did. Consistency is a key factor at this stage.
Albert recently developed a eCourse for looking after your cat's mental and physical needs. If you are interest in learning more about this free eCourse and taking good care of your cat, please go to http://catcentral.justastore.com or you can send an email to catcentral@getresponse.com to request for your free eCourse.
Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com
Read more
While instilling discipline into your cat is important, tough punishment must be avoided. Instead use positive actions and avoid negative ones when training your cat. Negative actions such as hitting or yelling are not generally acknowledged by them. Cats are known to associate these adverse actions with you rather than with their bad behavior. And as a result, the relationship between you and your cat will be strained.
To maintain and forge a loving and warm relationship with your wonderful cat, you can use the following tips to help you solve your cat’s behavior problems.
Train them young
When your cat is still young, he is more open and responsive to training. Bad behaviors have not yet been formed and not given a chance to develop. The older he gets, the harder it will be to train your cat.
Give them regular love and attention
Do not use harsh or bitter tones to reprimand your cat; instead a gentle hug, caress, or a whisper has a longer lasting effect. Your relationship with your cat should be fun, rewarding, playful and interesting. Sometimes this change alone will solve your cat behavior problem. Cats when they are bored are known to become overly active and destructive. By playing with your cat daily and giving him regular relaxing massages can help to calm your kitty down. Cats normally stop using their litterbox when they feel neglected. With regular sessions of attention and play time, even litterbox problems can vanish almost overnight.
Reward them for good behavior
Cats are creatures that love rewards and fear punishment. Cats will only do things that they find pleasurable and rewarding to do. Reward your cat for good behavior. Give rewards such as treats, sweet talking or gently stroking the cat to let him know that you approve of the way he is acting.
Let them know what is acceptable and what is not
Educate your cat on what is correct and acceptable behavior and what is not. Reward him for good behavior. Cats have very short attention span and they tend to forget what they did a minute ago, much less hours ago. In order for you to discipline and make your cat learn, you must catch your cat in the act. As cats hate water, one effective way of making your cat learn is through the use of a spray bottle or squirt gun to startle your cat when you catch him misbehaving. Another method is the use of a whistle to create a loud noise to startle your cat as cats loathe loud noises.
Make your training sessions short but frequent
Training sessions should be brief but frequent. Cats are known to have short attention and interest spans; so it is important to make your sessions brief to be more effective.
Systematic training will do the trick
Owners must design their training programs. The program depends on their cats' attitude. Things to be included in the program are the specific tasks that the owners want their cats to do and the corresponding rewards. This method will deliver the results that you want only if you stick to the program that you did. Consistency is a key factor at this stage.
Albert recently developed a eCourse for looking after your cat's mental and physical needs. If you are interest in learning more about this free eCourse and taking good care of your cat, please go to http://catcentral.justastore.com or you can send an email to catcentral@getresponse.com to request for your free eCourse.
Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com
Solid black cat, black and white cat and brown and white cat...
Hello there...
Harry C here, your online Personal Trainer and Sports Nutritionist.
A little bit about my backgroung:
I was born in Athens, Greece on 1978 and as I grew up it was obvious to me and others that I was crazy about anything that had to do with sports or athletics. I'm 2 times World Champion at Tang Soo Do martial art, and played Basketball, Gymnastics, Dancing, you name it. When my college age came I studied and graduated on sports sciences and sports nutrition. So, I became a certified sports nutritionist and fitness trainer. The thing I want to talk about in this article is a concept, a factor that enhances your bodybuilding and weight training and thus, your strength, power and fat burning.
This "Repetition Method" as i call it is my favourite and my clientel's favourite for the past 4 years with tremendous results.
The method is called Compensatory Acceleration Training (aka CAT) method.
It is the perfect method to make the most out of your valuable time in the Gym.
A little bit of a background on this:
In 1982 Dr. Frederic C. Hatfield talked about the concept of compensatory acceleration training or CAT. Dr. Hatfield claimed the following benefits for CAT: greater efficiency, fewer injuries and greater explosive power. Hatfield defined compensatory acceleration as "pushing as hard as possible throughout the movement" , i.e. a high action velocity. Interestingly, years later a study by Jones et al. supported Hatfield's contentions by finding that CAT was superior to traditional standard weight training for developing upper body strength and power.
However, it is generally agreed that a major shortcoming of both CAT and traditional standard weight training is the large negative acceleration phase that typically occurs, especially when lighter weights are used. For example, Elliot et al. revealed that during 1-RM bench press, the bar decelerates for the final 24% of the range of motion. At 81% of 1-RM, the bar deceleration occurs during the final 52% of the range of motion. Some years before the compensatory acceleration article was written by Hatfield, Dr. Gideon B. Ariel had recognized the problem with the deceleration phase and had designed and developed his Dynamic Variable Resistance exercise machine to compensate for it.
"Repetitions should be performed as fast as possible with maximal mental concentration for recruitment of the maximum firing levels of muscle fibers as required in maximal human performance." — Gideon B. Ariel, PhD
The above quote from Dr. Ariel was in a twenty page booklet that was written almost thirty years ago introducing Universal's new Dynamic Variable Resistance (D.V.R.) weight machine. The name of the booklet was "Understanding the Scientific Basis behind our Universal Centurion". The booklet and subsequent research study done by Ariel are of particular interest to me because of my patented free-weight variable resistance system that I have been working on since 1996.
The section I pulled the quote from was entitled "Resistance Exercises and Ballistic Contraction". In this section Ariel laid out his two central variable resistance training principles.....
1. The resistance exercise should be performed using multiple joint motion.
2. The resistance exercise should be performed with explosive repetitions.
It was very clear in this publication that Universal and Ariel, knew, understood and appreciated the importance of explosive strength for athletes and centered their scientific presentation and marketing efforts around that need. Many variable resistance machines have come and gone since, but to the best of my knowledge, this was the only one that advocated "explosive repetitions" and "variable resistance" as a superior way to train.
However, does this work with Free Weights?
Explosive repetitions or maximal voluntary contractions performed with a free-weight variable resistance system like the BNS Bands System clearly meets the criteria for an "explosive strength training exercise" as defined by Stone (9) in his Position Statement and Scmidtbleicher in Strength and Power in Sport......
Stone – "Exercises used to develop explosive strength are defined as those in which the initial rate of concentric force production is maximal or near maximal and is maintained throughout the range of motion of the exercise."
Scmidtbleicher – "Explosive strength can be defined as the neuromuscular system's ability to generate high action velocities."
Just as Ariel and Hatfield have stated, the individual should make a willful effort to push the weights as hard and as fast as possible throughout the range of motion on every repetition. Because of the additional resistance provided by the bands as they stretch in a linear fashion, the action velocity, muscular contraction speed and the resulting force production can be kept at a high level throughout the range of motion. Without the variable resistance provided by the bands, the deceleration phase of squats and benches etc. would adversely impact the effectiveness of those exercises as explosive strength exercises - as defined by Stone et al.
Ok Here's how Cat Works in action: lets's take the Bench Press For Example.
You want to lower the bar in controlled movement and just before the bar touches your chest you explode it back up as fast as you possibly can BUT make no mistake here this will be compensatory acceleration ONLY is 2 factors are present.
1. You should work at 65 - 85% of RM in order fo this to work because with less weight than that, you won't have CAT you will have just momentum speed! and that could be hazardous to your joints. The muscle explosion doesn't show in the naked eye, it is just happening in the muscle as you try push a relatively big weight in high speed.
2. The weight must never stop in either phase of a repetition! Nore the eccentric or the concentric phase the bar or leg press ot cable must always be on constant motion and never pause at a repetition.
That's it! Just lower the weight slowly and WITHOUT PAUSING at the bottom of the movement, explode back up as fast as you can again without pausing at the top of the movement. All that must take place in full range of motion.
This method of training can take your workouts to an all new level and be stronger, build more muscle, be leaner and burn more fat, and burn much more caloried because of the increased muscle fiber recruitment.
For more info and products that can help you improve your health and fitness visit my website at www.health-balance-reviews.com
Till Next Time...
HarryC
Health-Balance-Reviews.com
Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com
Read more
Harry C here, your online Personal Trainer and Sports Nutritionist.
A little bit about my backgroung:
I was born in Athens, Greece on 1978 and as I grew up it was obvious to me and others that I was crazy about anything that had to do with sports or athletics. I'm 2 times World Champion at Tang Soo Do martial art, and played Basketball, Gymnastics, Dancing, you name it. When my college age came I studied and graduated on sports sciences and sports nutrition. So, I became a certified sports nutritionist and fitness trainer. The thing I want to talk about in this article is a concept, a factor that enhances your bodybuilding and weight training and thus, your strength, power and fat burning.
This "Repetition Method" as i call it is my favourite and my clientel's favourite for the past 4 years with tremendous results.
The method is called Compensatory Acceleration Training (aka CAT) method.
It is the perfect method to make the most out of your valuable time in the Gym.
A little bit of a background on this:
In 1982 Dr. Frederic C. Hatfield talked about the concept of compensatory acceleration training or CAT. Dr. Hatfield claimed the following benefits for CAT: greater efficiency, fewer injuries and greater explosive power. Hatfield defined compensatory acceleration as "pushing as hard as possible throughout the movement" , i.e. a high action velocity. Interestingly, years later a study by Jones et al. supported Hatfield's contentions by finding that CAT was superior to traditional standard weight training for developing upper body strength and power.
However, it is generally agreed that a major shortcoming of both CAT and traditional standard weight training is the large negative acceleration phase that typically occurs, especially when lighter weights are used. For example, Elliot et al. revealed that during 1-RM bench press, the bar decelerates for the final 24% of the range of motion. At 81% of 1-RM, the bar deceleration occurs during the final 52% of the range of motion. Some years before the compensatory acceleration article was written by Hatfield, Dr. Gideon B. Ariel had recognized the problem with the deceleration phase and had designed and developed his Dynamic Variable Resistance exercise machine to compensate for it.
"Repetitions should be performed as fast as possible with maximal mental concentration for recruitment of the maximum firing levels of muscle fibers as required in maximal human performance." — Gideon B. Ariel, PhD
The above quote from Dr. Ariel was in a twenty page booklet that was written almost thirty years ago introducing Universal's new Dynamic Variable Resistance (D.V.R.) weight machine. The name of the booklet was "Understanding the Scientific Basis behind our Universal Centurion". The booklet and subsequent research study done by Ariel are of particular interest to me because of my patented free-weight variable resistance system that I have been working on since 1996.
The section I pulled the quote from was entitled "Resistance Exercises and Ballistic Contraction". In this section Ariel laid out his two central variable resistance training principles.....
1. The resistance exercise should be performed using multiple joint motion.
2. The resistance exercise should be performed with explosive repetitions.
It was very clear in this publication that Universal and Ariel, knew, understood and appreciated the importance of explosive strength for athletes and centered their scientific presentation and marketing efforts around that need. Many variable resistance machines have come and gone since, but to the best of my knowledge, this was the only one that advocated "explosive repetitions" and "variable resistance" as a superior way to train.
However, does this work with Free Weights?
Explosive repetitions or maximal voluntary contractions performed with a free-weight variable resistance system like the BNS Bands System clearly meets the criteria for an "explosive strength training exercise" as defined by Stone (9) in his Position Statement and Scmidtbleicher in Strength and Power in Sport......
Stone – "Exercises used to develop explosive strength are defined as those in which the initial rate of concentric force production is maximal or near maximal and is maintained throughout the range of motion of the exercise."
Scmidtbleicher – "Explosive strength can be defined as the neuromuscular system's ability to generate high action velocities."
Just as Ariel and Hatfield have stated, the individual should make a willful effort to push the weights as hard and as fast as possible throughout the range of motion on every repetition. Because of the additional resistance provided by the bands as they stretch in a linear fashion, the action velocity, muscular contraction speed and the resulting force production can be kept at a high level throughout the range of motion. Without the variable resistance provided by the bands, the deceleration phase of squats and benches etc. would adversely impact the effectiveness of those exercises as explosive strength exercises - as defined by Stone et al.
Ok Here's how Cat Works in action: lets's take the Bench Press For Example.
You want to lower the bar in controlled movement and just before the bar touches your chest you explode it back up as fast as you possibly can BUT make no mistake here this will be compensatory acceleration ONLY is 2 factors are present.
1. You should work at 65 - 85% of RM in order fo this to work because with less weight than that, you won't have CAT you will have just momentum speed! and that could be hazardous to your joints. The muscle explosion doesn't show in the naked eye, it is just happening in the muscle as you try push a relatively big weight in high speed.
2. The weight must never stop in either phase of a repetition! Nore the eccentric or the concentric phase the bar or leg press ot cable must always be on constant motion and never pause at a repetition.
That's it! Just lower the weight slowly and WITHOUT PAUSING at the bottom of the movement, explode back up as fast as you can again without pausing at the top of the movement. All that must take place in full range of motion.
This method of training can take your workouts to an all new level and be stronger, build more muscle, be leaner and burn more fat, and burn much more caloried because of the increased muscle fiber recruitment.
For more info and products that can help you improve your health and fitness visit my website at www.health-balance-reviews.com
Till Next Time...
HarryC
Health-Balance-Reviews.com
Source: High Quality Article Database - 365articles.com
The Somali is a breathtaking cat to behold. It bears an uncanny resemblance to a little fox, with its large ears, masked face, full ruff and bushy tail. The Somali’s wild, feral look is what immediately draws fascinated attention.
Somalis are intelligent cats, and while active, they have soft voices and are usually quiet. They communicate with human family members through soft mews and possess a charming trill. They are extroverts and very social. Possessed with a zest for life, they love to play, solicit nuzzles and pats, and thrive on human companionship. Somalis have bursts of energy several times a day, at which time they will take off through the house, jumping into the air. They toss balls and toys in the air, fetch them back and begin the game anew. Tail and back arched, the Somali will run sideways like a monkey, and even hold objects and food the way a monkey does. Adept at opening cupboards and drawers, Somalis sometimes hide inside their secret areas. Many Somalis can manipulate faucets, and they love to play with water.
Somali
Pictured: Second Best of Breed GC, RW FAIRYTOWN DYNASTY OF LEO STAR, Ruddy Somali Male
Photo: © Satoshi Daichi
Somalis are well-proportioned, medium to large cats with firm muscular development. Their body is medium long and graceful, with a medium-length soft and silky coat that requires little grooming. The coat is usually one to three inches long, with shorter fur across the shoulders. The tail is fluffy and full; their feet have tufts between the toes. Their large, almond shaped eyes range in color from intense green to rich copper. The Somali has an agouti, or ticked, coat with four to twenty bands of color on each hair. The ticked fur mantles the cat with harmonizing solid color on its underside. They come in four recognized colors: ruddy, red, blue and fawn.
Somalis have small litters of three to four kittens, which develop slowly. They reach their full size at about eighteen months of age.
Somali
Pictured: Third Best of Breed GC, RW SUNFOX WILD BLUE HUCKLEBERRY, Blue Somali Male
Photo: © Chanan
Pricing on Somalis usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National Regional winning parentage (NW or RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.
There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the Somali breed. For more information, please send inquiries to CFA, PO Box 1005, Manasquan NJ 08736-0805.
Text: Karen Talbert
Last Updated: Thursday, May 24, 2007
Art from the artist...
I'm not afraid of you...
Cat in a rooster clothe!
Any one who owns a pet will be the first to tell that very soon that pet will grow beyond being a pet to very quickly becoming a member of the family. We adopted a cat that was well beyond its infancy and it quickly became a part of our brood. It was obvious our pussy was just more than a pet cat when we all felt he qualified for his own stocking at Christmas.
I went shopping and unfortunately bought several instead of just the one so I had trouble choosing which one I would use. The one I chose to use was just beautiful; it was red at the top white at the bottom and covered in a frosty looking coating. It also had our cats name ‘Tinkerbell’s’ on a tag. It also had a bell on the end that suited his name as well.
This particular stocking was very practical being about 20 inches long and 7.5 inches wide. There will be more than enough room in it for all the goodies we will stuff inside. There will be everything in there, chocolate mice, toys, stringy things with shiny things on the end that pussy will chase. We can’t wait for Christmas time to come so we can watch the fun.
I bought a second item more for me really than the cat really. It was too good to pass up. It was a good cat bad cat stocking. Good cat on the one side Bad cat on the other. This stocking will be a great conversation piece all though it is too small to hold all the goodies we bought. It has a Cut Cat on the top but no bell but it is really funny.
On the one side the Cut Cat is sitting very still and looking so cute and pretty. The expression is one of pride and pomp. It has a Santa hat that puts it fair and square in the festive spirit. Now the one on the back is a different story all together. It is facing away from you so you cannot see its face just its back view. You can see the wall where the cat’s claws have gouged great ruts in the paper on the wall. The wall is seriously damaged and the cat’s fur is standing on end whiskers straight out and if there was sound available you would most certainly hear it
The whole idea of the good cat bad cat was really eye catching so I bought it as well. It is certainly a humorous addition for our pussy. Tell you what I think we need to go out and get a second pussy just to put this other stocking to good use.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Clark_Haroldson
Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon!
A medium-sized feline, Jungle Cat is believed to be the largest of the existing Felis genus wild cats. Distributed over a wide area extending from North Africa to Southeast Asia, the Jungle Cat is one of the most adaptable and versatile cats. Contrary to what its name suggests, the Jungle Cat is seldom seen in dense tropical rainforests - existing more on forest and river margins and marshy areas. A large, slender cat it resembles a serval in its physique with a weight ranging from ten to thirty five pounds, height at shoulders around fourteen inches and length nearing two and a half to three feet - though considerably bigger Jungle Cats have been recorded in the wild.
Color is uniform and quite similar to the domestic Abyssinian cats, varying across the cat's distribution, from a sandy grey to reddish. Legs are long and are often marked by some brown stripes. Tail is short, black-tipped and often ringed. Nose and chin are usually white and ears are large with dark tufts on the top like those of a lynx - giving rise to their common name 'Swamp Lynx'.
Felis Chaus, the Jungle Cat seems to have been bred of its ancestor African wild cat in ancient Egypt for the purpose of hunting wild fowl - afterwards it was mummified and entombed there. Primarily a predator of small mammals, fish, birds, rodents and snakes - the cat has been known to take down deer fawns and wild pigs. Hunting mostly in daytime, Jungle Cat has been known to swim and attack aquatic animals.
Often seen in groups, the Jungle Cat is perhaps the only feline where both male and female come together to actively partake in the rearing of the young. Kittens are born after a gestational period of around sixty five days with a large litter of up to six babies often recorded. They have a number of stripes to camouflage them in their infancy that disappear as they age. Males, the larger of the specie, are even more protective of the young than the females and emit loud barking sounds as part of their vocalization. The kittens are weaned off at three months and begin hunting at six months. Independence is reached at ten months and sexual maturity is gained at around eighteen months of age. Mating is believed to occur twice an year.
Several subspecies of the Jungle Cat are recorded, in accordance with its distribution in the wild:
Felis Chaus Chaus (Turkey, Iran, Iraq, Afghanistan, Russia, Jordan, Israel, Syria, Lebanon and Pakistan)
Felis Chaus Affinis (Kashmir, Sikkim and Indochina)
Felis Chaus Fulvidina (Thailand, Burma, Cambodia and Vietnam)
Felis Chaus Furax (Syria and Iraq)
Felis Chaus Kelaarti (Sri Lanka)
Felis Chaus Kutas (Pakistan, western India)
Felis Chaus Nilotica (Nile Valley Egypt)
Felis Chaus Prateri (Pakistan, western India)
Felis Chaus Oxiana (Russia)
Despite having a large distribution in the wild, the Jungle Cat, also known as Reed Cat, is now being considered to be under threat owing to widespread hunting for its fur. It is estimated that as many as twelve adult jungle cats are killed to make one fur coat. It also comes in conflict with farmers over occasional consumption of domestic poultry. Many sport hunters do not hesitate to poison this beautiful cat since it preys upon the small mammals they like to hunt!
The author is a blogger about cats and an expert on jungle cat.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Omer_Ashraf
Omer Ashraf - EzineArticles Expert Author
Read more
Color is uniform and quite similar to the domestic Abyssinian cats, varying across the cat's distribution, from a sandy grey to reddish. Legs are long and are often marked by some brown stripes. Tail is short, black-tipped and often ringed. Nose and chin are usually white and ears are large with dark tufts on the top like those of a lynx - giving rise to their common name 'Swamp Lynx'.
Felis Chaus, the Jungle Cat seems to have been bred of its ancestor African wild cat in ancient Egypt for the purpose of hunting wild fowl - afterwards it was mummified and entombed there. Primarily a predator of small mammals, fish, birds, rodents and snakes - the cat has been known to take down deer fawns and wild pigs. Hunting mostly in daytime, Jungle Cat has been known to swim and attack aquatic animals.
Often seen in groups, the Jungle Cat is perhaps the only feline where both male and female come together to actively partake in the rearing of the young. Kittens are born after a gestational period of around sixty five days with a large litter of up to six babies often recorded. They have a number of stripes to camouflage them in their infancy that disappear as they age. Males, the larger of the specie, are even more protective of the young than the females and emit loud barking sounds as part of their vocalization. The kittens are weaned off at three months and begin hunting at six months. Independence is reached at ten months and sexual maturity is gained at around eighteen months of age. Mating is believed to occur twice an year.
Several subspecies of the Jungle Cat are recorded, in accordance with its distribution in the wild:
Felis Chaus Chaus (Turkey, Iran, Iraq, Afghanistan, Russia, Jordan, Israel, Syria, Lebanon and Pakistan)
Felis Chaus Affinis (Kashmir, Sikkim and Indochina)
Felis Chaus Fulvidina (Thailand, Burma, Cambodia and Vietnam)
Felis Chaus Furax (Syria and Iraq)
Felis Chaus Kelaarti (Sri Lanka)
Felis Chaus Kutas (Pakistan, western India)
Felis Chaus Nilotica (Nile Valley Egypt)
Felis Chaus Prateri (Pakistan, western India)
Felis Chaus Oxiana (Russia)
Despite having a large distribution in the wild, the Jungle Cat, also known as Reed Cat, is now being considered to be under threat owing to widespread hunting for its fur. It is estimated that as many as twelve adult jungle cats are killed to make one fur coat. It also comes in conflict with farmers over occasional consumption of domestic poultry. Many sport hunters do not hesitate to poison this beautiful cat since it preys upon the small mammals they like to hunt!
The author is a blogger about cats and an expert on jungle cat.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Omer_Ashraf
Omer Ashraf - EzineArticles Expert Author
In a sweater!
Don't make me angry!